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Portals for Talon 1000X

35K views 87 replies 6 participants last post by  287  
#1 ·
Do you have or plan to make portals (15% to 25%) for the Honda Talon X. I did not see them on your web site.

Thanks
 
#67 ·
Yep! Comes with the lowers. You can go as big as you want with the 4". It just needs a minimum of a 14" wheel, so you can go HUGE if you want. The 6" portals need a 18" minimum and the 8" portals need a 22". You can get the 4" in 15% and 30% reductions, depending on how big you want to go...you have options to go as big as you want.
 
#68 ·
OK settled on 4" and 30%. Should be right where I want it and in the future if I decide 35s are a bit small then I can go larger without worrying about torque or HP. I figure just before next ride in the Everglades I will step up a little and still have the 35s for regular riddling near my home. 35s require a bit of additions but I think I have them covered!
 
#70 ·
Thanks for the help picking the right parts for the Portal upgrade.

4 inch Billet portals with 30% gear reduction
Box of Portal Blood
2 super duty upper ball joints (Lowers come with kit).

Love working with SuperATV.
Hell yeah dude!! Can't wait to see that thing all done up! Its gonna be a beast!!!
 
#72 ·
I had to do some other projects but managed to get a bit done this weekend. All in all, about what I figured, I opted to use a floor jack to have plenty of room with jack stands and I think that was better than using the car lift. I repositioned the OEM brake tabs to the other side of the mounting locations and that worked well. Portal blood installed and the extra four drain plugs go over the hill hole (Ha Ha) not spares! Brake lines look like stainless steel covered in a protective shield. I have not lead the brakes yet will do that all at once. I will look at tolerances between the rear portal plate and see if I need additional clearance (using stock wheels). Brakes fit without shims but will relook after the front is finished. It will be next weekend before I get back to this project. Ride safe and keep having fun!
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#76 ·
SuperATV please have your portal folks take a look at the pictures. There are small metal flakes in all of the portals and they are all about the same. Gray on the end of the metal drain plugs as well. Just want to make sure all is well. This is after the very first run. Most of the larger specks in the photo are air bubbles but in the sunlight the silver specks sparkle so there is some metal in the fluid. Thanks for taking a look. I will drain again after another 30 miles.



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#77 ·
Hey buddy!
No worries. That's totally normal for the first run of oil. Just the gears meshing and cleaning out whatever dust and debris may be in there. I like to change the oil out about every ride for the first 3 rides or so....then you're good go go. You can get away with a couple hundred miles per ride after that. I change more for being in the mud, but its not always necessary if you don't notice any issues.

And for wheels, we don't make a 15" right now. I've always liked MSA and Fuel wheels personally.
 
#78 ·
Thanks a bunch that is what I figured but always good to check. Thank you. I want to keep the Warriors on 15s and at some point before the Annual Swamp Billy run get a larger set of mud only tires. So far the wider stance is actually nice and not a problem but it is wide.
 
#79 ·
Hell yeah it is! The only problem with width would be trail or trailer limitations. Other than that...its always a way better ride.
BTW...I have a great video my buddy shot on the Portal Blood. Reminds me that I need to make a separate post about it. Thanks man!
 
#82 ·
I purchased a case and that is what I recommend. Each bottle is enough to fill the 4-inch portals twice. You will need a minimum of two just for the initial break-in period to purge any and all metal particles from the fires and second runs. Then if all is clear change about every 200 miles. All according to the Portal Experts at SuperATV. That way you have enough for the first year without having to order again.
 
#83 ·
Second time Portal Blood changed. First two are from rear and then the fronts are much cleaner (most of the driving was 2-wheel drive). Note: When draining I poor an once or two of new fluid in to purge as much of the old oil as possible you can see the new oil especially in the rear samples. I think one or two more times of draining the fluid after each run will complete the purge process. Most of what you see are the bubbles in the Portal Blood reflecting the sunlight.

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#84 ·
Latest Portal oil change first the front -- The top is from the passenger side and still has metal flakes in it. The bottom is the drivers side and looks like it is clear and clean.
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Next the Rear
1036

Looks gray and used.

Is this normal with the rear taking most of the work? There is such a great difference in the oil used for the same amount of time.
In addition, is it normal for one side of the front to have more metal than the other?
 
#86 ·
Nah, don't worry about it. Still brand new and meshing. Totally normal. Plus, the portal blood is crazy sticky compared to most oils so I'd say its a good thing. As long as there are no leaking seals, keep on beating the hell out of it.
 
#88 ·
Made friends with a couple of riders that also have portals. The difference between the oil in the front and back portals is exactly what they are experiencing. They change the oil in the rear portals very often and the fronts not so much. So this is normal from what I have found with other riders with portals.