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I have a 2019 Talon X with 1000 miles. I have an intermittent sound in my rear end that sounds like a bad CV joint. The problem is, now they all feel good and I can't determine which one has the issue. (Currently all stock on tires wheels and suspension, except Bandit tender springs) So I am looking to buy a rear replacement axle to have one on hand.
What brand is everyone using, what are your likes / dislikes and why?
Thanks!
 

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I have a 2019 Talon X with 1000 miles. I have an intermittent sound in my rear end that sounds like a bad CV joint. The problem is, now they all feel good and I can't determine which one has the issue. (Currently all stock on tires wheels and suspension, except Bandit tender springs) So I am looking to buy a rear replacement axle to have one on hand.
What brand is everyone using, what are your likes / dislikes and why?
Thanks!
Following. I’ve been checking out the Rhino brand.
 

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I have a 2019 Talon X with 1000 miles. I have an intermittent sound in my rear end that sounds like a bad CV joint. The problem is, now they all feel good and I can't determine which one has the issue. (Currently all stock on tires wheels and suspension, except Bandit tender springs) So I am looking to buy a rear replacement axle to have one on hand.
What brand is everyone using, what are your likes / dislikes and why?
Thanks!
They all make noise sooner or later (even the Rhino brand). Run them till they break (which they probably never will). Unless you accidently hit one, they just don't break. Talon axles are bigger/stronger than most compact cars. They are not shit like a RZR axel. Mine have made noise when cold turning for thousands of miles, I just ignore it now and check to make sure they are still tight before each trip. Maybe someday I will tear into them and see if there are wear marks in the roller groves or something like that.

Way stronger than stock
That is just a flat out over exaggeration. RZR, maybe but a stock Talon axle is pretty damn strong.
 

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That is just a flat out over exaggeration. RZR, maybe but a stock Talon axle is pretty damn strong.
Eh...not really. The KRX...yeah, its a strong OEM axle. Not as much with the Talon. You'd notice a huge difference side by side. Plus, its just better material and heat treating. We do comparison testing on all of these. I'm sure I have a certain % over stock number somewhere, but its probably something they wouldn't want me to post.

I think this one is actually a X300 axle shaft, but either way....we test ours against everything else out there. Here's one of the tests. Torsion test.

 

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Eh...not really. The KRX...yeah, its a strong OEM axle. Not as much with the Talon. You'd notice a huge difference side by side. Plus, its just better material and heat treating. We do comparison testing on all of these. I'm sure I have a certain % over stock number somewhere, but its probably something they wouldn't want me to post.

I think this one is actually a X300 axle shaft, but either way....we test ours against everything else out there. Here's one of the tests. Torsion test.

Well, your Rhino 2.0 axles might be bigger/stronger but your inner CV's (the inherent and only problem with the Talon) are shit and even worse than my original stock. My Rhino 2.0 RR Inner lasted less than 1,000 miles and it is clicking worse that my previous stock axle with 4,000 miles.

Does your 18 month warranty cover clicking joints or does the axle need to completely fail before you will cover it?
 

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Paul, do you think the issue with the original axles are the cage and bearings from torque or are they short on grease? Mine is just starting to click after setting and I have debated pulling boot back and adding grease, just not sure will help??
 

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so does it make any sense to buy replacement OEM inside CV joint rather than a new axle when clicking gets bad enough? Mine like rest, clicks when cold with about 2100 miles on (been doing for about 400 miles).
 

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Well, your Rhino 2.0 axles might be bigger/stronger but your inner CV's (the inherent and only problem with the Talon) are shit and even worse than my original stock. My Rhino 2.0 RR Inner lasted less than 1,000 miles and it is clicking worse that my previous stock axle with 4,000 miles.

Does your 18 month warranty cover clicking joints or does the axle need to completely fail before you will cover it?
Paul, you know how this stuff goes. You're not new to this. The 2.0 is definitely stronger...bigger, and will outlast an OEM in the same conditions. BUT....you can still break one. Its always supposed to break before blowing a diff or transmission. Doesn't matter if its 4k miles from now, or 200 yards to that first obstacle. I can put a brand new one in, and break it immediately if I wanted to.

Sounds like you're still under warranty anyway. Simple fix.
 

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the rhino may be stronger all across the board.. but most of us dont have a problem with breaking them. its just the anoying clicking on the right rear axle. the inner joint clicks when turning on a hard surface. and imo the stock axles on the talon are a very good axle. if you are breaking axles then your doing things that result in lots of expensive broken parts, i do not baby my rig but have yet to snap a axle. all by buds that have canned hams and have about the same hp as be and bust axles all the time. but i do beat on mine harder than they do.
 

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I agree with @MDFMac, the Talon axle shafts are good for 99.9% of us. The Rhino 2 axle shaft is an unnecessary upgrade/overkill, especially when you couple them with inferior CV's. The Rhino CV's are worse than OEM. Under similar conditions, the OEM CV's were quiet for 3,500 miles but the Rhino 2.0 CV's were only quiet for a few hundred. Both are Chinese crap but the OEM are a little better Chinese crap.

I would GLADLY pay $200 for a good inner CV and just use the OEM axle and outer CV. Something made in USA would be nice.

Automotive tire Font Bumper Automotive exterior Auto part


And who is Honda trying to kid here?...

Font Rectangle Magenta Parallel Electric blue
 

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I agree with @MDFMac, the Talon axle shafts are good for 99.9% of us. The Rhino 2 axle shaft is an unnecessary upgrade/overkill, especially when you couple them with inferior CV's. The Rhino CV's are worse than OEM. Under similar conditions, the OEM CV's were quiet for 3,500 miles but the Rhino 2.0 CV's were only quiet for a few hundred. Both are Chinese crap but the OEM are a little better Chinese crap.

I would GLADLY pay $200 for a good inner CV and just use the OEM axle and outer CV. Something made in USA would be nice.

View attachment 3749

And who is Honda trying to kid here?...

View attachment 3750
2.0 CV's are 30% stronger than Talon OEM CV...and also offer more articulation. I've got all the numbers...all tested against OEM and all the aftermarket. I understand you're mad about a click...but it doesn't change the fact that we know they are stronger than OEM axles. You just happened to beat one up.

And where they are made? ....there are no USA made Talon axles. Companies can buy a license to say "Assembled" or Country of Origin, (COO), but that's just how the world works now. Guys won't pay $800 - $1000 per axle to have a USA option.

Again...doesn't matter how many miles. They can get damaged in 4k miles or 40 feet depending on what you're doing. Nothing "inferior" about them. You just damaged one. It happens. That's why we offer a killer warranty. Also why there are so many aftermarket options. If you couldn't break an OEM axle.....the aftermarket would be focused on beefing up your differentials and transmissions that those unbreakable axles would be grenading.
 

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2.0 CV's are 30% stronger than Talon OEM CV...and also offer more articulation. I've got all the numbers...all tested against OEM and all the aftermarket. I understand you're mad about a click...but it doesn't change the fact that we know they are stronger than OEM axles. You just happened to beat one up.

And where they are made? ....there are no USA made Talon axles. Companies can buy a license to say "Assembled" or Country of Origin, (COO), but that's just how the world works now. Guys won't pay $800 - $1000 per axle to have a USA option.

Again...doesn't matter how many miles. They can get damaged in 4k miles or 40 feet depending on what you're doing. Nothing "inferior" about them. You just damaged one. It happens. That's why we offer a killer warranty. Also why there are so many aftermarket options. If you couldn't break an OEM axle.....the aftermarket would be focused on beefing up your differentials and transmissions that those unbreakable axles would be grenading.
Blame the customer? WOW!!!
 

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2.0 CV's are 30% stronger than Talon OEM CV...and also offer more articulation. I've got all the numbers...all tested against OEM and all the aftermarket. I understand you're mad about a click...but it doesn't change the fact that we know they are stronger than OEM axles. You just happened to beat one up.

And where they are made? ....there are no USA made Talon axles. Companies can buy a license to say "Assembled" or Country of Origin, (COO), but that's just how the world works now. Guys won't pay $800 - $1000 per axle to have a USA option.

Again...doesn't matter how many miles. They can get damaged in 4k miles or 40 feet depending on what you're doing. Nothing "inferior" about them. You just damaged one. It happens. That's why we offer a killer warranty. Also why there are so many aftermarket options. If you couldn't break an OEM axle.....the aftermarket would be focused on beefing up your differentials and transmissions that those unbreakable axles would be grenading.
ok did you read the post? no one is saying that your axle isnt stronger..matter of fact. we dont really need a stronger one for most of us...... we want to get rid of the clicking. the clicking has nothing to do with how it is driven...
 

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ok did you read the post? no one is saying that your axle isnt stronger..matter of fact. we dont really need a stronger one for most of us...... we want to get rid of the clicking. the clicking has nothing to do with how it is driven...
Yes, this is what I was addressing from Paul.

Well, your Rhino 2.0 axles might be bigger/stronger but your inner CV's (the inherent and only problem with the Talon) are shit and even worse than my original stock
If your OEM and 2.0 axles are clicking...same axle, same location...that may be more than a coincidence. I'd like to know why. Paul's quote above is not true and unhelpful...but if there really is some kind of connection, I'd like to find out why they are all making that noise...OEM and aftermarket.
 

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i have no idea why, there is no slop in my old stock axle but it clicks. i now have a all balls axle in and it just started clicking recently. did not last as long as the stock from clicking. im sure paul knows what is causing it.. he is our local mad scientist. a bit abrasive but always has good info. if you were to build a axle that dose not click after 1k miles im sure it would sell. im sure with the stuff you guys sell you must have access to a talon. put some miles on it and then turn left and right slowly on pavement you will see what we are saying
 

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i have no idea why, there is no slop in my old stock axle but it clicks. i now have a all balls axle in and it just started clicking recently. did not last as long as the stock from clicking. im sure paul knows what is causing it.. he is our local mad scientist. a bit abrasive but always has good info. if you were to build a axle that dose not click after 1k miles im sure it would sell. im sure with the stuff you guys sell you must have access to a talon. put some miles on it and then turn left and right slowly on pavement you will see what we are saying
This is interesting. So...we can assume the right rear inner CV clicking (OEM and aftermarket) is common enough to be outside the realm of coincidence.
If the clicking is that common, than we'd have to assume its either trans related or suspension related.

This reminds me of an issue with the old Ranger 900 models. They were notoriously melting boots and blowing CV's on the rear right axles (OEM and aftermarket). Turns out...it was heat from the exhaust all along. The exhaust was directed right at the inner CV. Maybe we check for heat, and/or add an exhaust tip that directs the exhaust back away from rear end instead of straight down. Wonder if guys with aftermarket exhausts have experienced the issue after the new exhaust?

I have 3 Talons in the shop right now, maybe more out in the out buildings. I'll see if I can get some time on one tomorrow.
 
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