Hi, I went to the STI comps and the new sti tires. I went with 14” sti comp bead lock. A 6+1 in the front and a 4+3 in the rear. They made these rims for these machines as well as the tires. Mine are 30”x10x14 and 10 ply even on side walls. Also dot rated. Love them.
I'm at a loss with off sets. I understand 5" from inside rim to hub surface. But how can going from 28" tires to 30" tires have anything to do with changing off set? Nothing changed except the height of the machine. How would that make the rear more narrow than the front? I need to find a lesson on off sets.
Yep I get it I will try to explain. The Honda Talon, whether it is the R or the X, is 3" narrower, actually like 3.1-3.2, in the rear then the front. So if you get matching offset wheels you are automatically be roughly 3 in narrower in the rear. That is the reason for inch and a half spacers. Your stock wheel and tire setup equals out the front and rear width with offset of rims and width of tires. I cannot remember the exact offset and width of the stock front and rear wheels. But the stock tires are 11-in wide in the rear and 9 in wide in the front. Now tires are not true to actual size a lot of times. Anyway when you put matching 10-in wide tires on the stock wheels you are essentially going an inch wider in tread pattern in the front and an inch narrower in tread pattern in the rear. That obviously does not matter when you put matching rims all the way around. There are aftermarket rims that have different offsets that can basically get you to the same width without having to use a spacer in the rear. That makes rotating your tires and having a spare a little more difficult. That is why most people run the spacers. A 6+1 in the front and a 4+3 in the rear Will even out your track with without needing rear spacers. Hopefully that helps.
My first thought is, if the stock machine has 3" wider front, Honda designed it that way for a reason. Why assume others know a better design?
One thing to note is the 5+2, 6+1, 4+3, or any other like that is not the true number to go off of. The manufactures actually have different mm spacing from 1 manufactures 5+2 to another manufactures 5+2 making one of them not really a 5+2. I have 2 different styles of rims from the same manufacturer and they are a different mm while they are both called 5+2. One of my 5+2 is a +38 and the other is like a +10 (which is actually more like a 4+3) but still called a 5+2. Some manufactures 5+2 is a +40. So basically look at the mm not the 5+2.
You are no bother at all to me! That is what these forums are for. I've needed them many of times. I am not the best at explaining stuff in typed form!
I think I'm going to sell my oem tires and wheels eventually, and purchase a rim and tire to match the ones that I have. I went with 30" tires and it would be best to stay with the same diameter for much extended riding, not really necessary for short slow riding though. The original front tire and wheel would work on both the front and rear to get you home in my opinion.
Did you use the stock rims on the front? Or did you find stock rear rims to put on the front?
