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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am a chemist, so I have an interest in oils. Doing a search, I didn't come across any specific discussions about engine/transmission oil. The owner's manual recommends Honda GN4, which is a very basic dinosaur oil. Looking at servicemanagerpro, it recommends Honda's HP4S Synthetic. Have not seen the service manual yet, and what alternatives it lists.

I always prefer a synthetic that has an ester base, so I am running Redline Motorcycle which is an Ester/PAO blend, and has tons of ZDDP. In the past I have run Maxima and Motul products in my motorcycles and ATV's as well.

Also, in the owner's manual the general viscosity is listed as 10W30. It gives a outside air temperature chart that has a 5W30 alternative for colder weather and a 10W40 for hotter weather. Does anyone bother to change oil with the seasons? I live in the southwest, where the winters are mild, but the summers are very hot. In summer we mostly ride at high altitude to avoid the desert heat, but if I had to ride in 90+ degree F heat often, I suppose I would run 10W40.
 

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Also, in the owner's manual the general viscosity is listed as 10W30. It gives a outside air temperature chart that has a 5W30 alternative for colder weather and a 10W40 for hotter weather. Does anyone bother to change oil with the seasons? I live in the southwest, where the winters are mild, but the summers are very hot. In summer we mostly ride at high altitude to avoid the desert heat, but if I had to ride in 90+ degree F heat often, I suppose I would run 10W40.
In Florida we just have two seasons -- Summer and almost Summer -- so I do not change oil with the seasons :)
 

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i run 5 30 in the winter and 10 40 in the summer. but winter is at or below freezing here and summer is 70 to 90 ish. i prefer synthetic with the temps your talking about i would run the synthetic. but most of your modern dyno oils are very good oils.
 

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I run Amsoil in most of my stuff. In my Honda Pioneer 1000 and my Talon 1000 I have noticed differences in the transmission shifting and overall noise of the machine once I went to Amsoil front to rear on them. I also have a Yamaha yxz that I switched over to Amsoil and noticed a difference in it also. The difference is probably minimal but I notice it.
 

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I run Amsoil in most of my stuff. In my Honda Pioneer 1000 and my Talon 1000 I have noticed differences in the transmission shifting and overall noise of the machine once I went to Amsoil front to rear on them. I also have a Yamaha yxz that I switched over to Amsoil and noticed a difference in it also. The difference is probably minimal but I notice it.
:)
My preference is always full synthetic after the machine is broken in. Amsoil is a top quality product, the other lubricant I use is SuperATV Portal Oil and it will run in the differentials as well. Just make sure the product you select meets or exceeds Hondas specifications.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oils need to meet a price point, to remain economically competitive. Originally Amsoil base oil was PAO, fortified with ester. There is a some speculation that at some point they switched to a Group III base oil. Mobil 1 earned its great reputation back in the day as a PAO based oil, but quietly switched to Group III.

The new administration in Washington does not seem to be at all oil/gas friendly! Who knows what the future will hold for oil and gas based products. No doubt, we are in for some huge price increases!
 

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Oils need to meet a price point, to remain economically competitive. Originally Amsoil base oil was PAO, fortified with ester. There is a some speculation that at some point they switched to a Group III base oil. Mobil 1 earned its great reputation back in the day as a PAO based oil, but quietly switched to Group III.

The new administration in Washington does not seem to be at all oil/gas friendly! Who knows what the future will hold for oil and gas based products. No doubt, we are in for some huge price increases!
The same thing with Royal Purple!
 

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I am a chemist, so I have an interest in oils. Doing a search, I didn't come across any specific discussions about engine/transmission oil. The owner's manual recommends Honda GN4, which is a very basic dinosaur oil. Looking at servicemanagerpro, it recommends Honda's HP4S Synthetic. Have not seen the service manual yet, and what alternatives it lists.

I always prefer a synthetic that has an ester base, so I am running Redline Motorcycle which is an Ester/PAO blend, and has tons of ZDDP. In the past I have run Maxima and Motul products in my motorcycles and ATV's as well.

Also, in the owner's manual the general viscosity is listed as 10W30. It gives a outside air temperature chart that has a 5W30 alternative for colder weather and a 10W40 for hotter weather. Does anyone bother to change oil with the seasons? I live in the southwest, where the winters are mild, but the summers are very hot. In summer we mostly ride at high altitude to avoid the desert heat, but if I had to ride in 90+ degree F heat often, I suppose I would run 10W40.
Check out "Bob is the oil guy" website they get into the important details of the oils and there are many oil experts there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
A wet clutch can only tolerate a very small amount of moly. If the oil is not JASO MA, you are going to have clutch slipping issues.

I don't know why Honda did not separate the engine and transmission oils in this engine, like they do in the 450 dirt bikes. Then you could run slick oil in the engine (JASO MB), and wet clutch compatible JASO MA in the trans.
 

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A wet clutch can only tolerate a very small amount of moly. If the oil is not JASO MA, you are going to have clutch slipping issues.

I don't know why Honda did not separate the engine and transmission oils in this engine, like they do in the 450 dirt bikes. Then you could run slick oil in the engine (JASO MB), and wet clutch compatible JASO MA in the trans.
Okay thank you, that answers my question on it, by seeing the separate engine and transmission oil dipsticks I thought they had to be separated and I could use it in the engine but this is telling me that they are intermingled so I need to keep my good oil out of it, LOL
 

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Second dipstick is for the "sub-trans" (transfer case). Motor dipstick registers the combined motor and trans oil.

Not sure but Honda 450 may have been the first dirt bike to separate the motor and transmission's lubrication--was cutting edge 20 years ago. No idea how many bikes separate them now, but running them together--like the Talon's motorcycle motor--is not unusual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have seen posts from some who are running "slicker" oil (car oil or maybe a JASO MB oil???) in the sub-transmission, and claim smoother shifting. Because motorcycle specific oil is intended to survive being mashed between transmission gears (it is basically doing the work of both an engine oil and a gear oil), it has more anti-scuff additives than a car specific oil will have. So, I would definitely stick with motorcycle oil in the sub-trans.

If one really felt they needed something slicker in the sub-trans, one might try a moly additive or differential friction modifier, but I would have to be desperate to bother.
 
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