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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need a little help in deciding which is the best way to go for wiring and switches. I've done a little research and it looks like my options are the Honda Factory Honda Sub Harness with the Switch Plate with Volt Meter and Harness or the XTC 6 switch power control system. I just want something that is plug & play and simple to install. Anyone have thoughts on this?
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
U will probably get 80 different opinions on this.
I didn’t want to cut the machine or use up the cubby holes and went with a prewired 6 circuit fused switch/relay box with voltmeter. <$140.00. Fit my needs.

Good luck!!!
That's a nice setup, where did you purchase that equipment? Who is the manufacturer?
 

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Currently waiting on delivery of a 2021 Talon live valve and doing some planning ahead. Will be adding accessories and that six switch unit looks nice and clean. Does it wire directly to the battery? It looks like the source wire could have been a bit longer for routing purposes. Do you find the roll bar grab handles to be useful, and what type of mirror is that. Thanks.
 

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Hi. I’ll attach a schematic in the next day or two.

it’s very simple.
Honda already ran winch wires up front under the drivers cowl so I just tied right in. The kit that was shown had long leads to go from the relay box right to the switch console. The kit was made for a jeep to so I had zero splicing or extending.
Honda also ran a key on power 12v source up front under the drivers cowl that I used for control power for the relay box.

I’ll gather full part numbers and a sketch in a day or two.

The mirror was a $20 Amazon sxs item.

wife uses the grab handle - drivers side handle kinda useless
 

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Hi. I’ll attach a schematic in the next day or two.

it’s very simple.
Honda already ran winch wires up front under the drivers cowl so I just tied right in. The kit that was shown had long leads to go from the relay box right to the switch console. The kit was made for a jeep to so I had zero splicing or extending.
Honda also ran a key on power 12v source up front under the drivers cowl that I used for control power for the relay box.

I’ll gather full part numbers and a sketch in a day or two.

The mirror was a $20 Amazon sxs item.

wife uses the grab handle - drivers side handle kinda useless
Thanks, much appreciated. So far on my to acquire list is the SuperATV 3-in-1 split windshield, Aprove Tercel hinged tailgate rear gate, and still deciding on rear view mirror. I will want additional electronic accessories so the wiring information is great to hear. Thanks!
 

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A little long winded here….. but hope to help new talon owners with wiring and what Honda has already prepped up.

here is a schematic of how I wired up. That “jeep” kit has cables that are plenty long and I had to coil a bunch of the wiring up under the cowl. That relay box has a fuse for the control power and each circuit is individually fused as well. The relay box and console are all steel so I was kinda surprised no plastic China junk.

You should remove the plastic cowl piece behind the hood to get access to the Honda winch wires and key on power. The winch wires have blue tape wrapped on the ends. You will see a blue connector on the frame for the key on power up front as well.

I bought the splitter as I added a real temp gauge that I wanted to come on with the key.

I mounted the relay box up high as to not to block the radiator air flow - there may be a better location as well but that location worked for me as I used an adapter plate and used the frame holes to mount.

From the relay box to the console, the prewired cable unplugs on each end so it was easy to Mount everything and just connect the cable in between. I ran the cable on the drivers side roll bar to the top roll bar.

There is a circuit breaker that comes with the kit, you can see where I mounted mine under the cowl, I made a plate and used some factory holes to mount it to. I can get to it by removing the hood to reset or shut off - but to work on it I need to remove the cowl plastic. I ran the Honda red winch wire directly to the circuit breaker. I just bolted the Honda winch black negative wire to the jeep kit negative wire and wrapped with electrical tape. Ill eventually buy a negative post and redo this.

The red winch wire will need to be connected onto the battery, it is already in the battery box, wrapped with blue tape and was a pita to get out as it was shoved behind all the relays in the battery box.
The black negative cable was already connected by Honda somewhere on the machine. It is not in the battery box. Connect at the battery as the very last step!!!!! so there is no chance of arcing that positive hot lead.

PaulF on this forum was smarter than me and added a timer off delay so his accessories stay on for only 15 minutes after the key is shut off.


The relay box needs a +12V key on signal, so I only have one wire out of one of the plugs, the ground wire isn’t needed since the relay box is grounded by the negative cable.

The accessories wire directly to the terminal strip on the relay box.

Hope this makes sense, there may be other ways.
 

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Oops - had a set of roll bar brackets laying around and drilled and tapped the console for 1/4-20 and used some nylon washers and star washers to bolt up.

making brackets and mounting everything was about 90% of the time - wiring is painfully simple,
 

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Thank you for posting this helpful information. I know I'll be revisiting your installation and referencing your wiring schematic.
 

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Need a little help in deciding which is the best way to go for wiring and switches. I've done a little research and it looks like my options are the Honda Factory Honda Sub Harness with the Switch Plate with Volt Meter and Harness or the XTC 6 switch power control system. I just want something that is plug & play and simple to install. Anyone have thoughts on this?
Thanks
 

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I’m very interested in this also. I’m pretty good with most things but not electrical stuff. But I want it to all look clean an professional.
 

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I did the same thing except I built my own and used the wire for winch
BUT
I want my lights to be switched with key on and find that is not an easy option that is why I went the easy route but don't be a dunt a dunt and forget to switch off as I try not to but have found myself sitting in camp and realizing lights are on it would be way better to go to a keyed hot wire anyone know a better way I think the connector in pic with green wire is keyed but it's fuse is not enough for lots o lights
Thanks for any info
And good job to all who has done this it works good
20201008_092346.jpg
20201008_092346.jpg
20201007_104428.jpg
 

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Unclep - very nice work.

as an option you can wire a 100A contactor in, connect one side to the red cable coming from battery and the other side to your fuse panel.
You can use that wiring in the blue contactor to power up the coil of the contractor. Key off - everything goes off.
 

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WOW what it's really that easy I would like to know do you gave any type of drawing for this or if I get what your saying red wire for winch to 1 of the top post and another to the fuse panel where will the wire from blue connector attach man this will be a game changer Holy smokes I can't wait to rewire to this if I can figure out blue connector
19psu88 Thanks for your input it was very very informative and valuable View attachment 2683
 
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