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Discussion Starter #1
I want to relocate the radiator anyone do that yet?

I am working with Hess Motorsports and hope to have the prototype next in the next week or two. They have one a kit, but it is located in the back cargo compartment and my cooler would bash it, and the cargo compartment is very small to start with. They are currently working on a bar so it can be placed above the cargo compartment and will not interfere with the air filter lid. I will still be able to use the OEM rearview mirror also. Vast improvement in cooling capacity, integrated fans with OEM sensors, manual override to turn on the fans. Prototype includes all radiator connections. The bar will be shipped raw and I will paint it, The actual kits will be powder-coated I understand. The prototype radiator is different than the finished kit will provide, it has a lot of modifications, moved inlet and outlet, moved mounting brackets, will have patches over removed items. I contacted them last month everything is moving forward quickly. No worries about mud (unless a really big hole) 馃槀. The first three pictures are with the unmodified radiator and simple test fit. The last two pictures are with the modified radiator, the inlet and outlet will be right rear.


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Discussion Starter #2
Update, the bar is finished as a prototype but they are using it to build a jig to produce a large batch at one time. As soon at the jig is finished and tested against the prototype they will be ready to ship. Hope I have it in a week or two max.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No updates, this is the difficult part of 1st prototype or one off parts. It just takes a while and no way to tell exactly how long the process will take. Hope the installation and initial testing go well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Unit is on the way, I will have to paint the support bar as I did not want to wait two weeks for powder coat. I have plenty of paint supplies and no issue for me. I will degrease the part, scuff it, degrease again and clean then spray it black. Not sure what the final price for the unit will be but this will add a second option to mount the fan up a lot higher and also clear the snorkel. First step will be to purge the Engine Ice but no worries as it is environmentally and pet friendly, That is a job and will take some time but definitely has to happen before the new radiator is installed. Should ship today and may be here as early as Friday.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Ok parts arrive today so first step is to drain the cooling system. First find the drain plugs you can access them through a hole in the skit plate here is a pick. Be sure to have two new washers for the plugs. Here is a picture:

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There is also a purge nut located on the top side of the thermostat housing. Look in the maintenance manual for the location and picture. It is on the front side of the cylinder hose and you can feel it if you know exactly where it is located. Here are two pictures that show the hose that goes to the thermostat housing. The pictures are from the passenger side wheel well looking at the front of the engine.

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You can fit a wrench in and loosen the bleed valve. You can also remove the seat, top cover and associated plastic and get a view from the driver's compartment if you wish the details are in the maintenance manual.

The Water Pump Drain can be viewed from under the skid plate -- here is a picture.
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The other locations are easy to get to the radiator cap and overflow bottle.


First flush the old system with 50/50 distilled water and white distilled vinegar to clean the system and completely remove all old antifreeze or whatever you are using. After you are satisfied all of the old antifreezes and any contaminates are flushed out of the system them will with Peak 50/50 antifreeze with no additional additives (Hess Recommendation). Below is the procedure to flus and then refill the cooling system.
Drain the overflow, next drain the system using by removing the two plugs and then go through the fill procedure it is in the maintenance manual. Replace the plugs then loosen the bleed bolt on the thermostat cover and fill, when full start engine for three minutes goose the throttle three of four times. Fill radiator if needed, repeat, when radiator stays full tighten the bleed bolt. While running check the water pump drain tube to make sure it is not constantly dripping water. A little is ok just not a constant flow. This procedure works and should remove any trapped air pockets. Be sure to read the maintenance manual and if you do not have one do get one!

Drive save and have fun. I will add pictures as I go forward with the installation.

Hess sells a funnel system and I recommend it helps when you are filling the system not a perfect fit but it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok start by removing the center console, both seats, both seat backs, the plastic shell covering the rear compartment. Also remove the hood and access cover behind the hood as well. Now remove the center bottom skit plate and also open the compartment with the air cleaner. You should be able to easily locate the thermostat cover with the bleed screw on top and also the water pump inlet. Your first task is to locate the painted bar onto the talon then position the new radiator on it. Once you are happy with the installation location add the rubber isolator strips between the attachment bar and the new radiator then drill holes in the inner fender to allow for the radiator hoses. See picture below: I used a 1.25 inch hole saw to match the outside diameter of the hose.

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Here is a look at all of the loose parts that came with the kit:

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The radiator I received, front and back:
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The unfinished and then painted attachment bar:
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Start with the bottom hose, remove the OEM clamp and turn the OEM hose 90 degrees to passenger side, use the hose connector from the kit to attach to the new radiator hose and route to the radiator:

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Here is a look at the upper hose connected to the thermostat housing:
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Both hoses connected:
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Radiator Isolator and Relay: Note: I may have to move the relay to allow for the wiring restrictions.
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So that is the physical installation and I added 50/50 Peak antifreeze as recommended -- takes just over a gallon. Next I will do the electrical installation. The entire project has no instructions so it is taking be a bit of trial land error and I have to locate and drill all of the mounting holes. No worries as the folks at Hess Motorsports walked me through it. Do be very careful not to overtighten the overflow fitting -- that warning from Hess Motorsports.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
First here is a picture of the final overflow bottle location. I also removed the relay and placed it behind the drivers seat to allow for routing all of the wires that connect to it.


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Ok the electrical connections are all in. First unplug the fan connection and reconnect to the new wiring harness. Next locate the blue accessory plug with a cap on it just next to the power steering motor and uncap it then connect the connector and pass through connector in case you want to use that key on B+ in the future. I located my switch in the lower compartment and there is a new switch plate for the lower location in June. I preordered mine and am just leaving the switch loose for now. Next I placed the relay just behind the drivers seat drilled a hole and used a pushpin to secure it. The three fan connectors will easily the fan connectors just between the two seats. The final item is connecting the fused B + connector to the battery + and then the - to the battery (I drilled a 1 inch hole just behind the drivers seat up high and to the right. It took me a bit but it is almost all out of sight.

Below is the jack that goes to the original fan connection
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Below is the switch and connection to the assessor (switch on B +)

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Here is the relay and the ground connection to the left of the relay
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Connections for the three fans
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Battery connection with the fuse holder
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The first check of the fan override and the fans was a successful. Now I have to remove the hard pipes and the forward radiator hoses, mount the grill and then put it all back together. Biggest challenge was placement and wiring, with the prototype there were no instructions and I had to make a few small brackets to locate things where I wanted them. I will get a few pictures when the project is finished.
 

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2019 Honda Talon 1000R
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looks great. would there be a way just to get the wiring schematic for the way you did the over-ride function?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
looks great. would there be a way just to get the wiring schematic for the way you did the over-ride function?
After it is all back together I will do a pencil drawing. Trouble with prototypes there are no schematic or instructions I will put something together. The wiring loom was assembled and that was a definite plus. With this setup the fans work automatically unless you have the key on and select override then the fans are on even if the engine is not. I wish Honda had done that as well. Most of my overheating occurs when running hard and we pull over then the temperature spikes that coupled with a lot of mud in the radiator!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
All finished, The initial test ride went well, the fans are very efficient and they only come on for a minute. You can feel the warm air over a foot from the rear of the fan. I will try to get it out for a much longer run this weekend and take a few pictures as well.
 
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