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Discussion Starter #22
BTW, The kit will completely eliminate the OEM Intake resonator and will clamp directly to your air box. The stock intake is located inside the right rear fender well and lives in a extremely dusty environment all the time even if your riding alone because the right rear tire is sending dust up into that fender well and the air intake is sucking it in. If you notice mine is breathing in a much cleaner environment. Once done it will be the easiest thing to service on your Talon.
 

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Yes remove the stock riser where it clamps to the rubber boot, and clamp on the 3 inch pipe that comes with the kit
The Warrior installation instructions require the user to completely remove the stock Honda resonance stack?? If so that would kill the intake resonance tuning - kind of a reverse expansion chamber. That will cost hp and put a strain on the air induction system.
 

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The Warrior installation instructions require the user to completely remove the stock Honda resonance stack?? If so that would kill the intake resonance tuning - kind of a reverse expansion chamber. That will cost hp and put a strain on the air induction system.
Hi Hotsauce, yes it will affect intake noise, as far as HP reduction, removing the restriction and replacing the throttle body plate with a larger diameter one produces a very small bump in HP and torque. Enough that you may need to use a tuner with wide band to check AFR. You will definitely need the tuner if you couple it with a full performance exhaust system. The exhaust will add to the noise in almost all cases. So if you are concerned about noise do a comparison with a fellow rider that has the mod. Idiot, is spot on, getting the air intake up and out of the fender well is a definite positive and made the decision easy for me. In addition moved all of the vent lines to the top of the riser as well. Have fun and keep riding.
 

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Hi Hotsauce, yes it will affect intake noise, as far as HP reduction, removing the restriction and replacing the throttle body plate with a larger diameter one produces a very small bump in HP and torque. Enough that you may need to use a tuner with wide band to check AFR. You will definitely need the tuner if you couple it with a full performance exhaust system. The exhaust will add to the noise in almost all cases. So if you are concerned about noise do a comparison with a fellow rider that has the mod. Idiot, is spot on, getting the air intake up and out of the fender well is a definite positive and made the decision easy for me. In addition moved all of the vent lines to the top of the riser as well. Have fun and keep riding.
Thanks BlueDog1210

I couldnt agree more that the intake being located in the wheel well is an engineering snafu.

"Removing the restriction"? Which Restriction?

It was my understanding, from discussions in several other forums, that the primary purpose of the Intake Resonance Stack was to enhance intake pressure wave tuning and any silencing of the intake was a welcome side effect that was icing on the cake. Do you have factory information otherwise?

So I am not concerned at all with noise. I am much more concerned with disturbing the intake tuning. If my information is correct then I would propose just cutting off the cap on top of the resonance stack and splicing onto the resulting pipe from there.
 

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Thanks BlueDog1210

I couldnt agree more that the intake being located in the wheel well is an engineering snafu.

"Removing the restriction"? Which Restriction?

It was my understanding, from discussions in several other forums, that the primary purpose of the Intake Resonance Stack was to enhance intake pressure wave tuning and any silencing of the intake was a welcome side effect that was icing on the cake. Do you have factory information otherwise?

So I am not concerned at all with noise. I am much more concerned with disturbing the intake tuning. If my information is correct then I would propose just cutting off the cap on top of the resonance stack and splicing onto the resulting pipe from there.
Hi hotsauce number 2 -- The plastic resonance is not very precise at all if you are not worried about the noise then, by all means, replace the plastic and more importantly match the size of the throttle body. Take a look -- there is always room for improvement. Just not sure what the effect on airflow would be? In any case, please feel free to make your mods and post a picture of the results.


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Hi hotsauce number 2 -- The plastic resonance is not very precise at all if you are not worried about the noise then, by all means, replace the plastic and more importantly match the size of the throttle body. Take a look -- there is always room for improvement. Just not sure what the effect on airflow would be? In any case, please feel free to make your mods and post a picture of the results.


and View attachment 517 View attachment 520 View attachment 520
Wondered if you guys with snorkels could tell me where the drain holes or weep holes are for keeping water out of the air box? Rode 50 miles the other day in dusty conditions in central Oregon and was shocked how there was like wet mud on the filter when I checked it. I have the stuff to do the warrior snorkel and just want to be sure that if there r drain holes to check that I know where they are.
Thanks for all the good info on trying to keep clean air!
 

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Wondered if you guys with snorkels could tell me where the drain holes or weep holes are for keeping water out of the air box? Rode 50 miles the other day in dusty conditions in central Oregon and was shocked how there was like wet mud on the filter when I checked it. I have the stuff to do the warrior snorkel and just want to be sure that if there r drain holes to check that I know where they are.
Thanks for all the good info on trying to keep clean air!
The drains have caps on them, just remove to drain if you encountered water. The dirty drain before the air filter is under the right rear fender above the exhaust.



The clean side after the air filter is under the left rear fender, its a white plug in a black hose above the oil filter.

 

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The drains have caps on them, just remove to drain if you encountered water. The dirty drain before the air filter is under the right rear fender above the exhaust.



The clean side after the air filter is under the left rear fender, its a white plug in a black hose above the oil filter.

Thank you for the great reply. I’m going to snorkel my live valve like Idiot did and am a little paranoid about water getting in on the intake side. Live in western Oregon where it’s been known to rain a little but winter in Arizona where it’s know. To be a tad dusty at times?. Got a 3 inch k and m universal filter along with the protective outside skin for it to put on snorkel. Not sure how much it would help in a rain so wanted to be sure where the drain plugs were. Any other ideas for keeping rain from getting through the k and m pre filter? Thx
 

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Thank you for the great reply. I’m going to snorkel my live valve like Idiot did and am a little paranoid about water getting in on the intake side. Live in western Oregon where it’s been known to rain a little but winter in Arizona where it’s know. To be a tad dusty at times?. Got a 3 inch k and m universal filter along with the protective outside skin for it to put on snorkel. Not sure how much it would help in a rain so wanted to be sure where the drain plugs were. Any other ideas for keeping rain from getting through the k and m pre filter? Thx
Steve is on the mark. It is a good idea to look at them each time you load your Talon I do and from time to time have to clean the mud off the exterior to see what is inside.
 

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Thank you for the great reply. I’m going to snorkel my live valve like Idiot did and am a little paranoid about water getting in on the intake side. Live in western Oregon where it’s been known to rain a little but winter in Arizona where it’s know. To be a tad dusty at times?. Got a 3 inch k and m universal filter along with the protective outside skin for it to put on snorkel. Not sure how much it would help in a rain so wanted to be sure where the drain plugs were. Any other ideas for keeping rain from getting through the k and m pre filter? Thx
I copied Idiot's idea with the snorkel and use the universal K&N with the sleeve like you mentioned. I live in AZ and the only time I don't encounter heavy dust is for the few days following heavy rains, like today's ride.



When washing or rinsing my Talon, if I've hit the pre-filter with a spray from the garden hose accidentally, I just pull the plug off the airbox and it drains right to the floor. I did experiment hitting it with a good rinse and the water collects at the low spot of the airbox where that drain is. You can see the residue where some water got in from me spraying the pre-filter in the picture below.




I'm OK with the pre-filter being where it is for my riding conditions, I'm not likely to encounter water that will be higher than that. But if deep water or heavy rain is a concern, you can install the pre-filter higher up. hondabob on the other forum has posted some good pictures and ideas about this. Here's one of them.
 

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How is the intake noise with this setup? Does the passenger get a loud intake noise?

For now, I've added the 3" angled UNI filter inside the box and will run that until either I stick with that method or find a suitable alternative that isn't $400+ dollars, doesn't increase noise much/at all, is effective.
 

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I'd say that it would have to be louder than stock but have no actual experience since I installed this before I ever rode the machine. Leaving the stock resonator in place would likely dampen some of the increased intake noise, I chose to remove it. I have a rear windshield and always wear a helmet and foam earplugs when I ride so my experience wont be the same as those with a different setup.
 

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Makes sense. I do like the simplicity of this configuration and low cost compared to the particle separators. I agree that earplugs is a good call because in stock form, the engine is pretty loud as-is and after even a half day riding, the ears have taken some punishment.
 

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I can tell you from personal, first hand experience, it is loud as hell. Mine lasted one ride, ripped it off, threw it in the trash and mounted an S&B on the roof so I didn't have to listen to it. Best thing I have done to my Talon so far. Air filter has over 1000 miles and is still in brand new condition. I honestly believe I will get 10K miles out of my filter.
 

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Good feedback and endorsement of the S&B. What I found particularly disappointing with the S&B is the kit needs the over priced Honda switch panel and another Honda accessory wire to work increasing the $400 by several hundred more. I haven't studied it enough to know if these can be foregone, but I suspect that might be the case. This leaves the KWT V2 which is not released and I'm not sure of it's performance yet but it's definitely a simpler install.
 

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Honda ran the power up front from the battery and there is key on power under the hood.
a couple of relays and a rocker switch .

There are cheap aftermarket switch plates.

It can all be foregone.

It’s a 4 beer/half day project - lol
 

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Not sure amps on S&B but yes u could eliminate rocker and just fire a relay and grab power from bus wires.

IMO - separate fuse/rocker/relay for each accessory and use the Honda key on circuit to shut it all off.

I keep everything separate, probably overkill but just the way I’ve always wired accessories up.

I was floored with the Honda cost ?
 

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Yep, a lot of way to wire up accessories, but a relay, bus, inline fuse is a solid approach. A dual battery setup is not a bad way to go too, but that's another discussion. I think for now, I'll keep with the UNI pre filter and just see how things go. With all the current events, I'm not keen on spending more than I already have. Unless of course, big discounts start showing up.
 
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