Any updates?I think I have a better and more definitive answer. I drown my poor talon and needed to do a whole engine swap out. In the process as I was having the same low range issues I split the sub tranny checked it all out (including parking paw sleeve) and while putting it back together noticed an interesting behavior. The shift drum has detents in it that will click into gear and lock the shift drum - HOWEVER what I noticed is that when shifting between gears - with sub transmission out the shift drum tends to stick between high and low UNTIL rotation is put on the input shaft (engine) ie the gears arent fully meshed yet and the transmission isnt fully shifted. If the input shaft rotates while applying pressure on the shift lever it clicks into the detent. Typically while driving I just put it in gear and go, from now on out will keep hand on the gear shift till in moves slightly to make sure that the shift drum is in the right place. Prior to turning it into Talon Cousteau had the same problem as all of you guys, adjusted the cable and changed the shifter gate to no great success. Waiting for parts still on the motor to test the theory but feeling very confident that continued pressure and slight movement will lock it in and problem is solved.
After my second time adjusting cable, I bought the CA shift gate my friends where using and it seemed way better for awhile. Now it's fine when I take off (used to just clunk when first put into low) but when I have to get on the throttle a little it clunks really hard, it will then go for a little bit but happen again so I stopped driving it until it can be fixed.I actually ran for months with the shift gate removed. When you look at the entire setup it is the detent on the sub transmission that is the key! The shift gate helps you keep it in an exact gear and no worries about bumping it out of place. I do not recommend running with out the shift gate but it works very nicely that way -- just do not bump it or move when in motion.
I agree and I am good at that now but that is not the issue. It is fully engaged when I start out, it may go 1000 feet or more without a problem but when I need power (say a hill, mud, snow patch) it pops/clanks but then will keep going until it happens again. I haven't had the clank when taking off since last June when I got the gate and check cable adjustment before long trips. This is my 3rd SXS so I've gotten used to stopping before shifting and checking the indicator before stomping the throttle (not claiming to be perfect at it). I've even gotten used to feeling it go in correctly when changing gears. This is happening long after the gear change/shift.I have t he CA shift gate and it works just fine, trick is making sure any sift gate does not bind and not allow selector in sub transmission to fully engage a specific position. Do make sure you are completely stopped before changing gears and after any gear change I ease on the accelerator to make sure it is in gear, sure you do the same.
I did talk to dealer and he said "it's rider abuse and we use these things for other than they were intended". He may not be much help with the warranty repair. I wonder what he thinks these were intended for? This seems to be too big of a problem to be rider abuse. I love my Honda and will stick with it but my RZR has had a lot more abuse as its the one with big mud tires, I like my Honda for rides when the wife comes so its a lot more mellow ride. Here is the Honda contact if anyone else wants to let them know.Wow, that is and indication that the dog ears are damaged, I was surprised at just how little amount of material on the leading edge of the dog ear can cause the clunking. Hope you do not have any damage and hope Honda will fix if you do. Have you talked to the local dealer yet? Good luck