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Discussion Starter #21
Ok here is a look at how small the contact area is on the engager in this case look for the edge that is rounded. It does not take much and it will not engage. To quote one of the sources I contacted the sub transmission is built like a Switch Watch, and sacrifices strength. If you get just one or two rough shifts -- the loud band -- that is enough to round of the contact area and damage it. This is true for High, Low and Reverse. Look closely and there were metal particles in the case just had to look closely. You will not find huge chunks of metal just flakes where the edge is worn off. I am considering my options now. If I replace just the one part and low it will work again but for how lone?

In any case take a look. I left the pictures fairly large. Should be a nice square and it is rounded. You can also see some small metal flakes -- that is all it takes to prevent low from engaging. I am doing the work by myself and going slow. And if you can turn a wrench you can do this. It takes a lot of time and patience. Time, if I had decided to get to the dealer they would not have started yet ant the price to get this far would be astronomical. If you don't know the sub trans a maintenance will help you find the part and the damage.


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Missing spacer recall.
While you have it apart is there anyway to tell what the end results would be if the missing spacer were to be ignored.
That all assumes that it is actually missing. None have been reported on forums I have read.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Missing spacer recall.
While you have it apart is there anyway to tell what the end results would be if the missing spacer were to be ignored.
That all assumes that it is actually missing. None have been reported on forums I have read.
Not sure what spacer and no way of knowing unless you have a part number.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Make my decision to have Complete Offroad Powersports (COPS) in Texas do the work and bulletproof it with added reduction as well. The will heat treat as well as add new gears along with the gear reduction. Will not effect Hi gear just low. Should be down for a month then a week or two to get all back up and running. Glad I did not give it back to the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
If you ever have to ship a heavy component like the sub transmission, use an old cooler or pick one up at Walmart. I also lined it with 4" heavy upholstery foam I had, . At least the process is started and it will be a while before the work is completed and the trans is returned. The cooler was recommended by Advanced Tuning Solutions AKA COPS and is a good idea.
 

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How did you find this place? If you don’t mind me asking. What is it costing roughly? I might just have this done so I do t have any issues I. The future
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I tracked down the creator of the first YouTube video and that is the what he is using. It is about the same as the IGR installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
OK, I am getting all of the preliminary work out of the way so that when the sub transmission comes back I can put it in and not have a long list of other items that need to be done. I checked the valve lash and found one of the front exhaust valves needed adjusting. It was just barely out of specks but now is spot on. I did the checks multiple times to make sure that it was correct. Not something I do every day and if you have never degreed a camshaft you might consider having this done. Not a big job but it must be done very precisely and check your work multiple times to make sure! I did it four times and by the last time it was a snap. The duplication also builds confident. You definitely need a maintenance manual in addition to the YouTube video that is available. Getting the areas you will work on as clean as possible is a must, pressure washer and compressed air are a must in my opinion. As you take the readings double check your feeler gauge and clean it prior to each and every use -- no added grit in the engine, plus grit between the blades will give a false indication. Also it is not specifically pointed out in the video or the maintenance manual but there are a total of 4 intake and 4 exhaust valves, do make sure you check them all. The first check is the key and making sure the two -- marks are parallel to the case is the key then look for the punch mark -- see the maintenance manual for sure!
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Moving forward the valve cover is back on and if you can not find the exact sealant Honda sealant 4 is what I used and it worked just fine. Be sure to look carefully at the maintenance manual as only the area that has the protruding bump on the forward portion of the valve cover actually requires sealant. I did use a small amount to hold the gasket in place on each of the four corners just to make sure it did not slip. Again clean and lubricate all of the rubber parts and follow the instructions in the manual and no problems. Valve cover is back in place, plugs installed and air filter box installed and connected. COPS in Texas inspected the sub transmission and confirmed the low gear and dogs were junk and something they see very often.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
The snorkel is back on along with the exhaust. Taking my time and no rush, thinking about reinstalling the axel and portals but not sure if will make putting the propeller shaft back on a pain or not but that would make the installation of the sub transmission with rear diff connection, filling it, and putting in the propeller shaft and re mounting the front diff. Much easier than depicted in the maintenance manual. Think I will get all of the little things out of the way first, finning rear diff, replacing engine and DCT filters and filling with oil. Also filling the rear portals. Then I will see about installing the front portals.
 
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