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Discussion Starter #1
Uh Oh, low gear is giving me a problem, feels like it is not going into gear properly or a gear is missing a tooth. I will take a better look tonight, this will be a task but I will do the work my self (with a little help from my friends -- of course). I would be lost without their help!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Something is broken, just not sure what. Looks like I am going to have to pull the engine and go from there. Removed shifter cable and manually adjusted to make sure the shifter/cable were not part of the problem. Nope and it is making a horrible sound and jumping if you give it much gas in low. High is fully functional and working properly, same with reverse. I did not notice any metal in sub transmission oil or plug and DCT filter did not show any signs of metal I could detect.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Anyone have pictures of video of engine removal very hard to find information. Also parts in sub transmission not just the case. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Found sub transmission shift fork diagram on Partzilla
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/side-by-side/2019/sxs1000s2x-a/gearshift-fork-sub-transmission
Here is the final drive shaft
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/side-by-side/2019/sxs1000s2x-a/final-drive-shaft
Below is the final DRIVEN shaft
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/side-by-side/2019/sxs1000s2x-a/final-driven-shaft

I also downloaded the Honda Common Service Manual PDF file and also a copy for the Honda 2019-2020 Talon 1000X2 manual so I could share it with the friends that are helping out with this project.
Also found this video on YouTube on how to remove sub transmission without actually pulling the motor completely out of the Talon:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did remove the drive shafts and now I think it would be possible to move the front final gear forward enough to remove the shaft without removing the propeller shafts. This will definitely reduce the total time to pull the sub transmission for the next person who has to repair it. I found a video -- Here is the video showing how to remove the driveshaft --

The time savings is incredible the shop wanted 14.5 hours just to pull the engine and remove and diagnose the sub transmission. No way you need to do that! No need to remove or disconnect engine at all. No need to pull front axles you can move the front final gear forward enough to get the axel out! Drivers side floor does need to come out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wow. There is a lot involved in that. Are you doing the work by yourself? Or do you have help?
I am blessed with some good friends and they help as they can. Super thanks to Rocky he is so fast I can not believe how much he is able to do in an hour or two. When it comes to removing the sub transmission do not follow the service manual or it will take you three times longer than it needs to. What a shame, I thought it would actually save time and I do not believe the shops follow it at all.
Remove driveshaft, pull sub transmission -- no need to pull front axles or engine at all. Wish I had seen the last video before pulling the front axles!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Here is another time saver if you are willing to cut a hole in the forward floorboard plastic. I will make a patch after the installation and have a permanent access hole in the event I need to remove the drive shaft to replace a u-joint they tend to fail about 2,000 miles or so. Now you have three options use a crowbar as in the first video, remove the floorboard or put in a permanent access hole. Caution go slow and only cut through the bottom rear half to leave a "flap" you will also avoid making contact with the drive shaft loop. Just go slow. I will send a picture of how I close up the hole after the installation is completed and everything is working. I estimate if you decide to make the access hole you will save about 30 minutes.

So, If you use the above two videos and the access hole you should be able to start removing the sub transmission in about two hours. I put that much time in removing items from the engine that I did not need to touch.

Below is a picture of the access hole I made:

1458

You can see the flap at the top right of the hole. This makes removing the 12mm bolt a breeze. Want to make it even easier, spray bolt with penetrating oil brake it free and use 3/8 inch impact.
Next step is removing the drive shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The drive shaft is now out of the way. It took a bit of prying on the front final drive but move it up and down with a pry bar in front and back and it will slip forward. After it moved a bit I would turn rear tire to rotate the shaft and help get it out.
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Discussion Starter #14
I am stopped for a bit. Removed two nuts and two bolts in front and three smaller bolts in rear. Still have the two studs in place. Sub is sliding on the studs. Next will be to drop rear dive shaft and spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Pulled rubber back just a bit on rear of driveshaft pulled sub trans forward about 2 inches and pulled rear driveshaft out from back. Pushed the sub transmission back in for now. Next will replace bolts, double nut studs remove them and then after removing bolts and it will be ready to take out the bottom. Finished for now. Working by myself today and it is still moving along. I supported the sub transmission with a screw jack to keep some of the pressure off of the studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok it is on the floor and cracked the case. Some metal but not as much as I expected. I will get a friend to look at it before I go any further. The procedure to pull the sub trans works. Note: before you pull out the last bolt, do make sure all of the electrical connections are disconnected, vent tube removed. The screw jack worked well I think if you use one to take the pressure off of the studs you will not have to reinsert the bolts. I put back one long on top and two short ones on the bottom. I will get a picture or two in the morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Considering options at this point.
1. Replace with OEM parts
2. Have entire unit redone, add 28% reduction in low gear and 34% in reverse remain the same in Hi. Process would bulletproof the sub transmission and eliminate one of the largest problem areas for the Honda Talon.

That would be in addition to 25% IGR, 30% Portals. Would make for a super granny gear in low and still have the same Hi gear it does now.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The dogs on the low gear. If just a small amount of material is removed they will not engage.
 
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