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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Washing my new Talon X2 for the first time this afternoon I realized I didn't know where the engine air intake is located or how to ensure I don't squirt water in it.

Is the plastic grill on the cowling behind the passenger's head the engine air intake? If not where?

I assume the Talon was designed to prevent water intrusion during a heavy rain or while washing. Correst?

Your comments are requested.
 

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Washing my new Talon X2 for the first time this afternoon I realized I didn't know where the engine air intake is located or how to ensure I don't squirt water in it.

Is the plastic grill on the cowling behind the passenger's head the engine air intake? If not where?

I assume the Talon was designed to prevent water intrusion during a heavy rain or while washing. Correst?

Your comments are requested.
Yup.
 

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I think they intended the air input to come in via the scoop behind the passenger door.. Unfortunately lots of other ways that air gets in, and for those of us who live in the desert or dusty mountains,
The air intake is one of the 1st mods I ( and many others) made after seeing the filter after 200 or 300 miles. Lots of posts on this topic here and hondasxs.com ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks.. I will look at the air intake track a little closer to better understand it.
 

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The Honda design prevents water from going in even if you spray it in the vent area. It has a hat like a mushroom. That said, it's a poorly conceived intake as tons of dust gets sucked in kicked up by the vehicle.

The cheapest way to keep your filter from getting clogged in dusty conditions is a snorkel with a filter on top. Some folks are using uni filters on the pipe where it enters the plenum.

Other prefilter options include KWT and S&B. I run the KWT, here is a review at 680 miles, I am waiting for the production model to do an updated review.

 

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The Honda design prevents water from going in even if you spray it in the vent area. It has a hat like a mushroom. That said, it's a poorly conceived intake as tons of dust gets sucked in kicked up by the vehicle.

The cheapest way to keep your filter from getting clogged in dusty conditions is a snorkel with a filter on top. Some folks are using uni filters on the pipe where it enters the plenum.

Other prefilter options include KWT and S&B. I run the KWT, here is a review at 680 miles, I am waiting for the production model to do an updated review.

Just opened my new 1000r today. I think there would be a problem using the Uni Filter. They are designed for air entering from the outside. More coarse filtering first, then finer filtering deeper. Dirty air entering through the inner finer foam would probably clog up very fast. I still may try it. After removing the outside air grill I saw many open holes to the dusty wheel well. I cut up some old 3" foam I had and stuffed it where I could. If you remove that grill you will see what I mean. I didn't notice any clear path for air from the side vent area behind the door. I'd prefer to have a duct all the way to the grill area, and have an easy access pre-filter there. I like the snorkel/filter idea.
 

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Just opened my new 1000r today. I think there would be a problem using the Uni Filter. They are designed for air entering from the outside. More coarse filtering first, then finer filtering deeper. Dirty air entering through the inner finer foam would probably clog up very fast. I still may try it. After removing the outside air grill I saw many open holes to the dusty wheel well. I cut up some old 3" foam I had and stuffed it where I could. If you remove that grill you will see what I mean. I didn't notice any clear path for air from the side vent area behind the door. I'd prefer to have a duct all the way to the grill area, and have an easy access pre-filter there. I like the snorkel/filter idea.
I don’t like the Uni filter idea. As dust collects, i can’t see how it won’t restrict the flow of air. Also, you need to open the plenum and remove the filter to check and clean it. That risks getting dirt in and wearing out the rubber gaskets keeping dirt from getting in the plenum. I would recommend snorkel or pre-filter, don’t waste your time trying to block holes or with the Uni.
 

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I don’t like the Uni filter idea. As dust collects, i can’t see how it won’t restrict the flow of air. Also, you need to open the plenum and remove the filter to check and clean it. That risks getting dirt in and wearing out the rubber gaskets keeping dirt from getting in the plenum. I would recommend snorkel or pre-filter, don’t waste your time trying to block holes or with the Uni.
Recommendations for snorkel? How much noise would the snorkel make if intake was near seats? And would that be the cleanest place for air intake? Ease for checking is high importance.
 

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Hi Doogle, the warrior is a very good snorkel and keeps everything dry, all vent tubes run to the top of the snorkel and it is fairly easy to install. Note, you will have to cut a hole and I bought a hole saw to do that and it worked out fine.
 

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Hi Doogle, the warrior is a very good snorkel and keeps everything dry, all vent tubes run to the top of the snorkel and it is fairly easy to install. Note, you will have to cut a hole and I bought a hole saw to do that and it worked out fine.
I didn't clarify, but my interest in the snorkel was to implement a pre-filter system. Here in Arizona I don't "plan" to ride rivers. All though a friend just destroyed his 1000R in water.
 

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I didn't clarify, but my interest in the snorkel was to implement a pre-filter system. Here in Arizona I don't "plan" to ride rivers. All though a friend just destroyed his 1000R in water.
Here is my review at 1400 miles on the pre-production prefilte. I have over 1000 miles on the production KWT. When I reach 2000 miles I’ll do another review.

KWT X2 pre-filter 1400 mile review
 

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In that case you don’t have to do anything with a snorkel, just decide which prefilter you want. S&B or KWT. Both come with every you need. I went with KWT.

Thanks Dave, already looked at your post and the KWT installation directions. I can't cut loose on $400 for a 3" hose going to a black box. They don't show pictures about how their system works. Just a black box with a hose going to it. It probably collects dust, just like any hose or surface before the filter. I was a mechanic/machinist for a major dry detergent making company. We had a system that sucked dust off areas in the system that went to gravity separators. They had a small diameter going into a large tank. The dust particles being heavier than air would drop to a lower area and be conveyed away. The somewhat cleaner air then went to a system that had electrically charged plates that attracted dust particles. Then the air went to a cloth filtering system. That is as simple as I can explain here. I know we can't do anything like this. My point is, before I would spend that kind of money I would need some facts/pictures about how their system works or unbiased tests with percentage of particle reduction. I would rather spend money wisely than to make some untested contraption of my own. But I have a lot of that in me.
 

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Thanks Dave, already looked at your post and the KWT installation directions. I can't cut loose on $400 for a 3" hose going to a black box. They don't show pictures about how their system works. Just a black box with a hose going to it. It probably collects dust, just like any hose or surface before the filter. I was a mechanic/machinist for a major dry detergent making company. We had a system that sucked dust off areas in the system that went to gravity separators. They had a small diameter going into a large tank. The dust particles being heavier than air would drop to a lower area and be conveyed away. The somewhat cleaner air then went to a system that had electrically charged plates that attracted dust particles. Then the air went to a cloth filtering system. That is as simple as I can explain here. I know we can't do anything like this. My point is, before I would spend that kind of money I would need some facts/pictures about how their system works or unbiased tests with percentage of particle reduction. I would rather spend money wisely than to make some untested contraption of my own. But I have a lot of that in me.
That is pretty much how it works. It has a series of tubes inside that create a vortex, spinning the particle to the side and fall with gravity. At the base is a dirt collection chamber. The designer, Ken an aerospace engineer has a video posted on the site about it.

Like I said, the cheapest method is a snorkel with a filter on top. I just don’t want another filter to deal with.
 

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I did the uni filter in the air box mod. I have had great results with it. Sure the air is supposed to flow outside to inside and its reversed in this situation. I havent had any loss of power. The filter is super breathable and not that restrictive. No problems cleaning it. Just take your time. Check the seals. Clean the air box cover before removing it. It is another filter but it cost me 17 dollars and it extends the life of the 45 dollar oem filter a sizeable amount. Every solution has its own list of pros and cons. Cost, looks, effectiveness. I just thought this was the most effective cheapest way to remedy the problem when you are on a budget.
 
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