[Doogle]

It may not be pretty, but it's the way I anchored my box. My box is very easy to unattach and it is very secure. I put a d-ring in the back top corners of the box. The ratchet strap is hooked there, then the loose end is fed thru the bottom Talon d-ring. From there the web goes to the d-ring I put at the top front corner of the box. Then it goes down and thru the ratchet, which is anchored to the bottom Talon d-ring with an s hook I added. With the same setup on both sides, I can quickly release each ratchet to remove the box. I wanted it quick and simple so I could check my air filter or add oil if needed. I used the pretty old orange web straps I had laying around since this was an experiment.

Picture of front near air filter box cover.

Picture from the right side

Looking from the rear

 

[Motex]

I used a 77 quart lifetime cooler from Wallmart. It is a Yeti knock off for $154 bucks. Has a place for a pad lock and mounts in the back like it was made for it. Pretty cheap (cost effective) box considering I didn't have to modify anything and it is very well made. I strap it to the factory D rings in the bed to and run them to the back of the cargo rack.

 

[Doogle]

Another consideration I had for my tie down was that I didn't want to unhook the web straps to get into the box. My first tie down was over the top to bed d-rings. Temporary, but secure. Using turnbuckles looks nice, but too time consuming if you remove the box often. My orange web straps will look good after I have them chrome plated.

 

[Go Talon]

Not sure why everyone is using all these hook, straps and d-rings?
I just used the already there two farthest and widest back holes in the bed, drilled them out slightly and then put two stainless 2” bolts thru from the bottom with two nyloc nuts to hold it down, drilled two matching holes in the bottom of the box (done before I put the bolts in) and then bought the corasponding threaded knobs they had at ACE hardware. Holds it down from the inside and tight! I also used a foam liner between the bed and the box to act as tension as well as a barrier (but you don’t really need it, I just had it from my old box).
works perfect and I can remove the box as fast as it takes to unscrew two knobs! Plus when you lock the box it’s locked onto the vehicle.
sorry for the crappy picture

 

[Doogle]

I considered doing that also. But finally decided that I didn't want to remove many things inside the box to get to the knobs before removing. And I was concerned with what might happen to the knobs if my heavy jack, come-along, or tool kit might slide around while bouncing down a trail. If I had used your design, I was going to use a couple 5" x 5" aluminum plates under the knobs to spread the load bearing surface. I thought after a while the hammering of the knobs on such a small area might puncture through the box. Probably not a problem if you only have light weight items in your box.

 

[Go Talon]

Yea we just have ice chest, first aid kit, jackets, small folding chairs etc...in the box all my tools pumps, tire repair and tow straps are in other places. Takes me about 1 minute to unload the box and remove the knobs And remove the box.

 

[franchak1996]

Not sure why everyone is using all these hook, straps and d-rings?
I just used the already there two farthest and widest back holes in the bed, drilled them out slightly and then put two stainless 2” bolts thru from the bottom with two nyloc nuts to hold it down, drilled two matching holes in the bottom of the box (done before I put the bolts in) and then bought the corasponding threaded knobs they had at ACE hardware. Holds it down from the inside and tight! I also used a foam liner between the bed and the box to act as tension as well as a barrier (but you don’t really need it, I just had it from my old box).
works perfect and I can remove the box as fast as it takes to unscrew two knobs! Plus when you lock the box it’s locked onto the vehicle.
sorry for the crappy picture
View attachment 1855

my husband drilled in ours also