I'm not certain that I understand what you are saying about the recoil spring. I have 6' worth of width. It's a flip down, ramp-style door in the back, plenty of width. my plan is to back it in (putting the engine in the front of the trailer), and escape out the side door. The rep at the Honda store seems to think that flattening the tires and removing the roof will be enough for it to clear into the trailer.I have reviewed enclosed trailers and was told that the height of a stock trailer is 72",but the catch is it takes about 4 to 6" inches for the recoil spring to lift the rear gate ramp. With that said, even with an extra 1' which I have seen some dealers now have(which would now be 84" interior total) after you back off the room for the recoil spring you would be right at number you need. A dove tail in the back would help with the issue on loading and probably be the solution but the 1000x4 is probably better served with a flat bed or utility trailer.
What is the interior dimensions of your trailer you currently have. Can you load the rig assuming it would fit at the height and still be able to get out the door on the side to exit?
What is the width of your trailer on the inside?I have a 20’ enclosed trailer with a 72” rear height. How does anyone out there fit the 1000x-4 in an enclosed trailer? Smaller rear wheels for trailering?
I measured a 1000x-4 today at 78.5” tall at the rear.
I am concerned with your ability to open the door of your Talon, within the trailer if you can get it to fit with the height and exit the Talon to get out of the trailer.6'4" between the wheel wells.
That is a lot of work for you to endure each time you go riding.I'm not certain that I understand what you are saying about the recoil spring. I have 6' worth of width. It's a flip down, ramp-style door in the back, plenty of width. my plan is to back it in (putting the engine in the front of the trailer), and escape out the side door. The rep at the Honda store seems to think that flattening the tires and removing the roof will be enough for it to clear into the trailer.
I would love to see how you’ve done this! You have resurrected new hope for an enclosed trailer! Would you be sure to have One from outside The trailer looking in via the side door and with your Talon door and trailer door open. I’m really curious how you’re able to get out of this trailer. Thanks againI have a 7’x14’x7’ enclosed trailer and my talon R fits very snug width wise. I have a few inches above and I’ve got 32x10 tires on 5+2 offset wheels. Once inside it’s pretty snug. I have to climb to the passenger side and then out the side door. Not terrible but I wanted a single axle trailer and as narrow as possible. I can take some measurements and pictures tomorrow if you’d like.
Thank you so much for sharing. That is a great option and the winch in option may work as well to avoid the climbing. I really appreciate you taking the time to share your thoughts and how you were going about doing it. I know that took a lot of effort and I appreciate itOK so I just took some measurements. Before you get your hopes up I'm giving you fair warning it is a little bit of a pain to get in and out of because its so tight fitting. I'm 5'11 and an athletic build 220#. I'm also a Lineman so I'm VERY used to climbing around. I find it to be worth it because a single axle trailer that the body sits inside the tires is easier to maneuver. A lot of the places I take this thing (especially hunting) are tight and I have to jackknife the trailer around to get in and out of these areas.
My Trailer is a Cargo Craft Elite model EV7141 with the 7' height. The door measures 77" wide by 78 3/4" tall. Once inside the trailer I have 4" of room on either side of the rear tires. That is with my 32x10x15 STI X COMP AT's mounted on 15x7 5+2 offset Including 1.5" spacers on the rear. The tightest fit is actually driving in-between the cables that pull the door back up when its lowered. if you hug one side as tight as you can or have an extra set of hands hold the passenger side cable out as you push the drivers side out you'd have no problem. I'm usually loading alone and have rubbed the cable a couple times but its not a big deal.
Once inside, to get out you have a few options: you can either squeeze between the driver door and the roll cage (think nascar exit) and go to the driver front tire. From there, either climb through the side to the back tire or around the front and out. What I typically do, is climb to the passenger side of the machine, toss a rag or towel over the passenger talon door (so I don't mar it up) and also open the trailer side door and get out that way. Going to the rear tire you have to squeeze between the fender and the wall which is currently 8" but I plan to put some fender flares that will probably negate that as an option for me in the near future. Also not having lower door panels is helpful because i use that as a transitional step from tire to tire. I’m near Chattanooga, TN so if you’re near the area by chance you’re welcome to come check it out. There's 2' behind the machine to put whatever else you'd like back there as well.
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My question is up abovewhen I was winching, I used a wireless remote on my Talon winch and had a floor ring mounted at front end of trailer. You do want to try to park on a fairly level spot so easier to control weight when handling car.
The door in side works great and so far I have no issues at all. I had to fab up a step to use on enter / exit so I could slow down getting in (& not hit my head so hard LOL). Aluma uses a 10" arm to hold the door in open position similar to the regular walk in door to prevent any damage from wind banging the door into the side