[Quepque]

I have a 20’ enclosed trailer with a 72” rear height. How does anyone out there fit the 1000x-4 in an enclosed trailer? Smaller rear wheels for trailering?

I measured a 1000x-4 today at 78.5” tall at the rear.

 

[Sharkman]

I have reviewed enclosed trailers and was told that the height of a stock trailer is 72",but the catch is it takes about 4 to 6" inches for the recoil spring to lift the rear gate ramp. With that said, even with an extra 1' which I have seen some dealers now have(which would now be 84" interior total) after you back off the room for the recoil spring you would be right at number you need. A dove tail in the back would help with the issue on loading and probably be the solution but the 1000x4 is probably better served with a flat bed or utility trailer.

What is the interior dimensions of your trailer you currently have. Can you load the rig assuming it would fit at the height and still be able to get out the door on the side to exit?

 

[Quepque]

I have reviewed enclosed trailers and was told that the height of a stock trailer is 72",but the catch is it takes about 4 to 6" inches for the recoil spring to lift the rear gate ramp. With that said, even with an extra 1' which I have seen some dealers now have(which would now be 84" interior total) after you back off the room for the recoil spring you would be right at number you need. A dove tail in the back would help with the issue on loading and probably be the solution but the 1000x4 is probably better served with a flat bed or utility trailer.

What is the interior dimensions of your trailer you currently have. Can you load the rig assuming it would fit at the height and still be able to get out the door on the side to exit?

I'm not certain that I understand what you are saying about the recoil spring. I have 6' worth of width. It's a flip down, ramp-style door in the back, plenty of width. my plan is to back it in (putting the engine in the front of the trailer), and escape out the side door. The rep at the Honda store seems to think that flattening the tires and removing the roof will be enough for it to clear into the trailer.

 

[Sharkman]

I have a 20’ enclosed trailer with a 72” rear height. How does anyone out there fit the 1000x-4 in an enclosed trailer? Smaller rear wheels for trailering?

I measured a 1000x-4 today at 78.5” tall at the rear.

What is the width of your trailer on the inside?

 

[Quepque]

6'4" between the wheel wells.

 

[Sharkman]

6'4" between the wheel wells.

I am concerned with your ability to open the door of your Talon, within the trailer if you can get it to fit with the height and exit the Talon to get out of the trailer.

 

[Sharkman]

I'm not certain that I understand what you are saying about the recoil spring. I have 6' worth of width. It's a flip down, ramp-style door in the back, plenty of width. my plan is to back it in (putting the engine in the front of the trailer), and escape out the side door. The rep at the Honda store seems to think that flattening the tires and removing the roof will be enough for it to clear into the trailer.

That is a lot of work for you to endure each time you go riding.

 

[Wilson1]

I was going to use my 20'' race trailer for the Talon (1000R). I measured the height of the Talon and the trailer and decided that it wouldn't fit. I have never tried it, but I am sure it won't fit height wise, especially if you decide to go to taller tires later. Another issue is getting out of the Talon. You might be able to, depending on your body build, but I am too old and fat so I would have to do it NASCAR style because I have equipment mounted on the insides of the trailer, and that won't work for me. So I bought an open trailer. Glad I did.

 

[Sharkman]

Having studied the R's specs, if you wanted to get it in with stock tires you would need at a minimum a custom 7.5' foot by 12' trailer with a 1 foot height increase. The trailers do exist, but in limited quantity regarding manufacturers. . A 8.5 with 16 foot long and 1 foot extra height is priced around $7200 in a Stealth trailer. That is is huge trailer to tow a side by side in when you can get a utility trailer for about 1/5 to 1/2 that cost, but forego enclosed security. To each his own, right!

 

[Quepque]

Thanks to all for the suggestions. I’d not considered the gymnastics involved in exiting the Talon once it’s parked in the trailer. I may have to rethink,,,

 

[Hoodiegadoo]

I have a 7’x14’x7’ enclosed trailer and my talon R fits very snug width wise. I have a few inches above and I’ve got 32x10 tires on 5+2 offset wheels. Once inside it’s pretty snug. I have to climb to the passenger side and then out the side door. Not terrible but I wanted a single axle trailer and as narrow as possible. I can take some measurements and pictures tomorrow if you’d like.

 

[Sharkman]

I have a 7’x14’x7’ enclosed trailer and my talon R fits very snug width wise. I have a few inches above and I’ve got 32x10 tires on 5+2 offset wheels. Once inside it’s pretty snug. I have to climb to the passenger side and then out the side door. Not terrible but I wanted a single axle trailer and as narrow as possible. I can take some measurements and pictures tomorrow if you’d like.

I would love to see how you’ve done this! You have resurrected new hope for an enclosed trailer! Would you be sure to have One from outside The trailer looking in via the side door and with your Talon door and trailer door open. I’m really curious how you’re able to get out of this trailer. Thanks again

 

[Hoodiegadoo]

OK so I just took some measurements. Before you get your hopes up I'm giving you fair warning it is a little bit of a pain to get in and out of because its so tight fitting. I'm 5'11 and an athletic build 220#. I'm also a Lineman so I'm VERY used to climbing around. I find it to be worth it because a single axle trailer that the body sits inside the tires is easier to maneuver. A lot of the places I take this thing (especially hunting) are tight and I have to jackknife the trailer around to get in and out of these areas.

My Trailer is a Cargo Craft Elite model EV7141 with the 7' height. The door measures 77" wide by 78 3/4" tall. Once inside the trailer I have 4" of room on either side of the rear tires. That is with my 32x10x15 STI X COMP AT's mounted on 15x7 5+2 offset Including 1.5" spacers on the rear. The tightest fit is actually driving in-between the cables that pull the door back up when its lowered. if you hug one side as tight as you can or have an extra set of hands hold the passenger side cable out as you push the drivers side out you'd have no problem. I'm usually loading alone and have rubbed the cable a couple times but its not a big deal.

Once inside, to get out you have a few options: you can either squeeze between the driver door and the roll cage (think nascar exit) and go to the driver front tire. From there, either climb through the side to the back tire or around the front and out. What I typically do, is climb to the passenger side of the machine, toss a rag or towel over the passenger talon door (so I don't mar it up) and also open the trailer side door and get out that way. Going to the rear tire you have to squeeze between the fender and the wall which is currently 8" but I plan to put some fender flares that will probably negate that as an option for me in the near future. Also not having lower door panels is helpful because i use that as a transitional step from tire to tire. I’m near Chattanooga, TN so if you’re near the area by chance you’re welcome to come check it out. There's 2' behind the machine to put whatever else you'd like back there as well.

 

[bjniceguy]

Here are a couple options if you have a existing 7' wide trailer. I have a Talon R at 70" that I load into a 7' x 14' x 7' High trailer. I had a 4' x 4' door installed in the drivers side so I can get out easily. Another option I used on my old 12' long trailer was to use front winch to pull in / control out while I stood outside the car. Then reached in to put car in park. I had stop blocks to winch to and tie car over tires. It worked well, but if winch fails, car can roll out fast so really need to put choks outside as backup. Only thing I woudl do different with door in side is go 5' high x 4' door so more head clearance when getting to pull car out. You learn quick to watch your head when you hit it LOL.

 

[Hoodiegadoo]

I like that little side door. That’s pretty slick.

 

[Sharkman]

OK so I just took some measurements. Before you get your hopes up I'm giving you fair warning it is a little bit of a pain to get in and out of because its so tight fitting. I'm 5'11 and an athletic build 220#. I'm also a Lineman so I'm VERY used to climbing around. I find it to be worth it because a single axle trailer that the body sits inside the tires is easier to maneuver. A lot of the places I take this thing (especially hunting) are tight and I have to jackknife the trailer around to get in and out of these areas.

My Trailer is a Cargo Craft Elite model EV7141 with the 7' height. The door measures 77" wide by 78 3/4" tall. Once inside the trailer I have 4" of room on either side of the rear tires. That is with my 32x10x15 STI X COMP AT's mounted on 15x7 5+2 offset Including 1.5" spacers on the rear. The tightest fit is actually driving in-between the cables that pull the door back up when its lowered. if you hug one side as tight as you can or have an extra set of hands hold the passenger side cable out as you push the drivers side out you'd have no problem. I'm usually loading alone and have rubbed the cable a couple times but its not a big deal.

Once inside, to get out you have a few options: you can either squeeze between the driver door and the roll cage (think nascar exit) and go to the driver front tire. From there, either climb through the side to the back tire or around the front and out. What I typically do, is climb to the passenger side of the machine, toss a rag or towel over the passenger talon door (so I don't mar it up) and also open the trailer side door and get out that way. Going to the rear tire you have to squeeze between the fender and the wall which is currently 8" but I plan to put some fender flares that will probably negate that as an option for me in the near future. Also not having lower door panels is helpful because i use that as a transitional step from tire to tire. I’m near Chattanooga, TN so if you’re near the area by chance you’re welcome to come check it out. There's 2' behind the machine to put whatever else you'd like back there as well.
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Thank you so much for sharing. That is a great option and the winch in option may work as well to avoid the climbing. I really appreciate you taking the time to share your thoughts and how you were going about doing it. I know that took a lot of effort and I appreciate it

 

[bjniceguy]

when I was winching, I used a wireless remote on my Talon winch and had a floor ring mounted at front end of trailer. You do want to try to park on a fairly level spot so easier to control weight when handling car.

The door in side works great and so far I have no issues at all. I had to fab up a step to use on enter / exit so I could slow down getting in (& not hit my head so hard LOL). Aluma uses a 10" arm to hold the door in open position similar to the regular walk in door to prevent any damage from wind banging the door into the side

 

[Sharkman]

Your side door is really cool, and a great idea. I had seen one of those on a hallmark trailer, and was wondering what it’s purpose was. I think you’re onto something there. Where there’s a will there’s a way right. Do you feel that the Honda 3500 pound winch could suffice for pulling the R into a trailer that is 7 x 14 x 7 high?

 

[Sharkman]

when I was winching, I used a wireless remote on my Talon winch and had a floor ring mounted at front end of trailer. You do want to try to park on a fairly level spot so easier to control weight when handling car.

The door in side works great and so far I have no issues at all. I had to fab up a step to use on enter / exit so I could slow down getting in (& not hit my head so hard LOL). Aluma uses a 10" arm to hold the door in open position similar to the regular walk in door to prevent any damage from wind banging the door into the side

My question is up above

 

[bjniceguy]

my GUT says 4500lb only because you are pulling it up hill on the ramp, but sure worth trying what you have and seeing how much it grunts (I already had 4500lb). I said to park level, but best is slightly up hill so car tends to roll out rather than rolling in and being hard to control. Again only warning I will add on winching is having a chalk bolted to floor on inside so car has to stop (can't get you by accident) and laying a large chalk outside in path at bottom of ramp incase winch fail and car rolls out. I had winch fail once where dog that engages winch popped out and winch just lets rope and car roll out. I didn't have any issue stopping it, but could see where a chalk was good insurance. I got idea for the side door from a trailer I saw called a Legend Allsport that has a giant gull wing door on that side. When checking around I was not impressed with quality of the trailer build versus Aluma (a local dealer had issues with panel coming off and having to be reglued)