[Todo317]

Anybody add a second battery for all your lights and stereo? Any photos and recommendations on how and where to place it?

Thanks

 

[Jefferson87]

I put mine under the hood.

CA technologys makes a mount, I actually bought one, then made my own after shipping took a bit. Then you just need an isolator, which I got of Amazon.

Don't make the mistake I did and run your own wire to connect the battery's together. Honda did it for you, it's for a winch, but it's the same thing. It's behind the driver side fender with blue tape.

 

[PaulF]

Anybody add a second battery for all your lights and stereo? Any photos and recommendations on how and where to place it?

Thanks

I also built my own battery holder (but for a rather different reason). I am not a fan of putting a battery in the direct path of the hot air off the radiator (heat KILLS batteries) and I also added a storage box so I built an insulated firewall (all the way from the hood down the tunnel to the pseudo skid plate) and put the battery. isolator and all the wiring behind that. The battery is on the right just next to the glove box. There is just enough room for a Group U1 (35 Amp Hour) battery. I used a small fuse/relay box and put it in the glove box for easy access. All accessories are relayed to come on with the key and stay on for 15 minutes after the key is turned off and I have an on/off override switch (AKA Retained Accessory Power like in a car) so I don't have to have the key on and don't accidently leave anything on for more than 15 minutes (I am getting old ). It runs everything I added except the S&B Particle Separator (I elected to leave that on the main battery)...

 

[Todo317]

I saw those wires when I was running my lights wiring. I will check into that battery tray and location. I think I could find a wire that is off the key switch and install a block for multiple connections instead of wire nuts and splices.
Thanks for the advice!!!

 

[PaulF]

I saw those wires when I was running my lights wiring. I will check into that battery tray and location. I think I could find a wire that is off the key switch and install a block for multiple connections instead of wire nuts and splices.
Thanks for the advice!!!

There is a factory "key on" connection already there, it is right on the front of the steering column and capped off. You can get a premade harness like this one here...

The Honda SxS Club – GONE RIDING!

store.hondasxs.com

I believe it is limited to 10 amps and shared with the cig lighter so you would need a relay for anything more than that...

 

[BlueDog1210]

Wow Paul so clean, I added a battery box and put the battery isolator above the glove box. I used marine parts as they are easy to find in Florida. Your install is very well done.

 

[TMCCOY]

A couple thoughts, an isolator is good if the second battery is larger than the primary. Isolators however, can be problematic in the UTV environment. If using the same battery as the primary, you can simply run them in parallel and use a battery switch (primary, secondary, both). I personally would choose this route for simplicity/reliability.

 

[BlueDog1210]

Mine is working very well If stereo or additional lights draw to much the isolator kicks in and will not allow the primary to discharge. I have been running for a while now and it has saved the primary several times. I use the same one many boaters in Florida use in their offshore rigs and so far no problems. This is automatic so no switches to use at all. I like automatic functions and there is a very small led that lets you know if it has isolated the primary or if both are in use. If both are in parallel it just gives you more time until both batteries drain. IMO just a preference to automate whenever possible.

 

[TMCCOY]

A good isolator is the key, if you don't mind, what one do you have? The switch scenario would be run in both mostly, but you can direct to one or the other for charging purposes.

 

[BlueDog1210]

I will take a picture of it when I get home. The isolator is nothing more than an electronic switch and switches both batteries in parallel but when the aux batteries start dropping the voltage it jumps into isolator mode. The way this one works you do not need the switch. I think the price was a bit over $100 but it is the set up that works at least here in Florida for the boating community.

 

[PaulF]

A couple thoughts, an isolator is good if the second battery is larger than the primary. Isolators however, can be problematic in the UTV environment. If using the same battery as the primary, you can simply run them in parallel and use a battery switch (primary, secondary, both). I personally would choose this route for simplicity/reliability.

There are UTV specific icolators that are not diode based. They are more of an electronically controlled relay that do a couple things...

• They only charge the aux battery when the charging system on the primary battery side reaches 13.4 volts.
• You can attach a wire to disconnect during cranking to avoid any possible feedback if you are using smaller wires.
• They do not consume power like a diode based isolator, it is a direct battery to battery connection through a relay.
• They are very small and light
• They work extremely well on smaller charging systems like UTV's.
• They are a "no brainer" items for old farts like me that will forget and leave a manually controlled switch the wrong way and drain my battery.

Electrical

store.hondasxs.com

 

[TMCCOY]

That's good to know. Perhaps my experience with isolators is with crummy isolators. I do tend to choose simple solutions, hence, no live valve talon.

 

[BlueDog1210]

Here is a the way mine is set up. Fairly easy to wire and verify you use proper wire sizes.

Below is the install area just above the dash. The switches are all marine grade the bus for the switches is 30 amps and ever switch has its own fuse as well. The bus connects to the aux battery and that battery should be a deep cycle battery mine is in a battery box under the hood one from CA.

If you hover your phone over the isolator it should allow you to go to Blue Sea Systems. 425 Sequola Drive, Bellingham, WA 98226 360.738.8230.
They are nice folks and I am sure they would answer any of your technical questions. Solid product and if you have had problems with isolators perhaps they can help you figure that out.

In any case I am always looking for better products that work without any issues especially electronics. Oh yeah that is mud all over and so far all is well. These are the units boaters use when they hop 50 or more miles off shore the isolator must work and all I can say is many folks in Florida are using this product. Not saying there are not other companies that produce poor products just that I trust this one.

 

[TMCCOY]

Good info. I think that being marine grade is the difference and I would try that route for the minimal cost and user friendly functionality. Thank you!

 

[BlueDog1210]

No worries, I am always looking for better ways to improve the performance of my Talon, looks like you are as well. Happy trails and be safe.

 

[TerryH]

Video I did of my dual battery setup if anyone is interested.

 

[Brussian88]

Nice 👍🏻

 

[MoabMarty]

Video I did of my dual battery setup if anyone is interested.

Thanks for the great video of your install.
1. Was wondering about the removable rubber shield that keeps most crud out of the area where all the electrical components are mounted just in front of the firewall. I'm using the after market one that spans the whole firewall, as opposed to the Honda stock one that protects only the center and driver side.
2. What is that black box mounted to the diamond plate on the glove box side ?

 

[TerryH]

I bought the full length shield that I have on Ebay. The box on the passenger side is the controller for the rock lights.

Link to the shield:

2019 2020 Honda Talon 1000R 1000X X4 mud guard / firewall shield | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2019 2020 Honda Talon 1000R 1000X X4 mud guard / firewall shield at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[Gprap]

There are UTV specific icolators that are not diode based. They are more of an electronically controlled relay that do a couple things...

• They only charge the aux battery when the charging system on the primary battery side reaches 13.4 volts.
• You can attach a wire to disconnect during cranking to avoid any possible feedback if you are using smaller wires.
• They do not consume power like a diode based isolator, it is a direct battery to battery connection through a relay.
• They are very small and light
• They work extremely well on smaller charging systems like UTV's.
• They are a "no brainer" items for old farts like me that will forget and leave a manually controlled switch the wrong way and drain my battery.

Electrical

store.hondasxs.com

I just got through installing one just like the one you are alluding to this afternoon. Mine is a True Battery Isolator made just for UTVs with a stator charging system. I got it on eBay for $59.99. It is a nice unit.