[Go Talon]

For an easy “Pre-Filter” fix I use a Uni offset filter underneath the stock filter.
There is no difference in noise and I’ve noticed no difference in performance.
I cleaned it the first time after I had about 245 miles on it and at that time the factory filter looked brand new.
These pictures are after 468 miles and this was the second time I had cleaned it.
Most of my rides have been in a group of from 6 to 8 rigs and all in the Yuma Desert Area where it is quite dusty.
I also spent one full day at Glamis.
It is kind of a pain to clean, but with a drill/driver it’s not to bad.
I do oil the inside and outside of the Uni filter
when I bought the filter it was $20.21 and I see it’s gone up a couple bucks.

UNI Hi Capacity 2-Stage Pod Filter Angled 6 in 3 in ID Amazon.com: UNI Hi Capacity 2-Stage Pod Filter Angled 6 in 3 in ID: Automotive

UNI FILTER Foam Filter Oil (1) Amazon.com: UNI FILTER Foam Filter Oil (1): Automotive

 

[Go Talon]

Oh I forgot to add I removed the courser Red Pre-filter on the Uni that is shown in the ad as I felt it was Un-necessary after the first time I cleaned it, as it is on the outside of the finer main filter foam

 

[TMCCOY]

I installed this before the first ride in our new X4 base. Being in UT, it's dusty for sure and it seems foolish to cake up the $40 OEM filters so easily. I'll run these pre filters until I go with a snorkle filter setup or maybe not at all if the UNI's work well enough. Don't want to cough up $400-600 for a particle separator.

 

[Wilson1]

The idea of the Warrior snorkel kit with a 3 inch filter on it kinda seems like a good lower cost solution to me. Over 400 bucks for a separator is just too much money. It seems if you had a couple of filters they would be easy to maintain and to change. I am strongly leaning in that direction.

 

[TMCCOY]

The downside of the snorkle from other users is they are very loud near the passenger ear. That's a huge drawback to that design.

 

[Wilson1]

If that is a big deal, then why not just extend it to the top of the cage or put an elbow on it and mount it back by the cargo compartment? I have a solid back window so I think that will mitigate that to some extent.

 

[TMCCOY]

I agree with that. Some pics of setups have the filter right behind the passenger and with no rear windshield, that would likely be loud. With some thin wall 3" AL tube, one could extend it to nearly anywhere to mitigate the intake noise. Something I may pursue. Working with the UNI filter now which is the least expensive and has minimal drawbacks so far. We only have about 50 miles on the talon but it is dusty roads. I believe there will be some aftermarket solutions before too long as well.

 

[TMCCOY]

FWIW, I checked on the intake system with the UNI in place after 50 miles (not much, but it is dusty in UT!) and the inside of the intake looked like new as does the OEM filter. The inside of the uni has a sharp line where the fine dust started and the inside of the filter is showing dirt. I'll run it and check it around 200 miles I think and see if it's ready for a cleaning.

 

[Wilson1]

That is looking really good especially for the price. Way better than stock. I have seen a couple of YouTube videos of guys making their own out of intercooler tubing kits which looks totally doable. I sent SYA an email asking if they could supply some additional 3" pipe with an additional coupler so you could extend it to the top of the roof and add a filter but they said no because everything is pre cut. Which is code for we don't make anything here. One guy made his own out of 2.5 inch tube and ran it behind the shock before going up thru the fender. I didn't like that very much. The other guy did a really neat install routing it like the original Honda routing so he could even keep the stock cover on the underside of the fender in place. Then went up thru the grill vent on the side. I really liked that, but he didn't show any detail of how he did it. I am thinking about ordering a 3" intercooler tube kit and seeing what I can come up with. In the mean time I think I will put a UNI on like you did. It is obviously way better than stock. Thanks for sharing.

So you live in Utah? Where? I live in WVC.

 

[Wilson1]

One thing about the UNI filter I am going to try is running it without oil. I do this on my race car with the big K&N. It increases the air flow. With a double filter, and oil, I am a little concerned it might restrict flow. The down side is that you might have to wash it after every outing, but hey, you have to work on these things a lot anyway.

 

[TMCCOY]

I'm in Saratoga Springs. I did think about not oiling the UNI, I will probably go that route after I clean this one as I agree that I'm not sure there's a need for it in this application. I did buy another UNI so I can easily swap them out when the time comes. Barring something exciting in the aftermarket, I don't see me changing anytime soon.

I am thinking about adding a reinforcing insert to the tube because it is so flexible. Not needed really, but it would be nice to clamp tightly to that tube. RiffRaff makes such an insert made for 7.3 powerstroke trucks and since that's what I own, I am familiar with them. They come in a set of two, so maybe we can go 1/2 on that?

 

[PaulF]

I am also in Utah (South Jordan) and the dust is horrible in most of Utah.

Whatever you use, it will have its drawback. I tired different solutions in this order...

1. External pre-filter just behind the passenger. I'm sure this would work fine but mine lasted one outing at the dunes. It was noisy as hell! Not just a little noise like a particle separator, it was excruciatingly loud and I was yelling at my wife when I got home because I couldn't hear much of anything for the rest of the evening. I ripped it off and threw it in the garbage the next day!
2. Internal pre-filter. Worked great and used it for about 600 miles. Constantly opening the air box and removing the air filter to inspect and clean presented a couple problems.
   1. The gaskets are made to be replaced with every filter change (a new filter comes with new gaskets). They can and will start leaking after multiple removal/install and you will eventually get dirt in the engine. This alone was the biggest reason I realized I needed to do something external.
   2. The bolts that hold the air filter are somewhat "delicate" and I have stripped the hex in a couple of them. If this happens when you are on a week long outing, could cause a real headache. You better carry some spare bolts if you use an internal pre-filter.
3. S&B costs $$$ but your filter will probably last 10,000 miles and you don't have to keep removing it to inspect/clean an inner pre filter. It is an "install and go" solution. It is a little noisy (nothing like #1) but if you put it above the roof or behind a rear window, you can't hear it when the engine runs. It works so good that I am now only going to check my filter at each (or possibly every other) oil change so I don't disturb the bolts and gaskets more than necessary.

After trying 1 & 2 to save some money (and eventually throwing away that money), I am glad I did the S&B and kick myself for not just doing it in the first place. Here is my filter and air box after 1000 miles with the S&B in Utah dust and sand. I am usually the rear radio lookout so I am always getting the worst of the dirt/dust/sand. Went to the dunes a couple weeks ago and the wind was blowing the sand up over into the bowls and straight at me and into the S&B. The free dermabrasion was nice... NOT!!! I was extremely concerned so I checked when I got home. The tiny bit of sand in the bottom of the air box was after the nasty sand storm. I was almost certain it would be full of sand and dust and it was not. This is untouched, the inlet pipe has no dust buildup and the filter is perfectly clean with 1000 miles on it. The S&B is expensive but for me it is totally worth it, especially after this sand storm incident. Now I understand why the military uses particle separators on their choppers in the desert.

 

[Wilson1]

Paul - Thanks for sharing your experiences. It is always nice to learn from what other people have done. Of course there doesn't seem to be a perfect solution to anything, and different solutions work better for different people. After sitting behind a race car for years with open zoomies if find these quite quite.... LOL... I still think I am going to try the extended snorkel and perhaps direct the intake somewhere toward the back of the machine will work. I do really like the idea of having a quickly removable K&N type filter with easy access. As for the air box O rings, and I am sure you know this, but putting some type of lube on the O ring will help its life. Especially in Utah where the dryness kills rubber. As Jethro use to say, I need to sit out by the concrete pond and study this issue a bit. If I come up with something that I am happy with, I will share it for sure.

TMCCOY - I am not familiar with the Ford parts you speak of since I am a Dodge Cummins guy. Don't hold that against me! LOL.... But it sounds like an internal sleeve to reinforce a tube for additional clamping force. If it isn't too expensive it does sound useful so I would be happy to split the cost... Of course if Ford had designed the part correctly the first time, they wouldn't need the insert.... Just having fun here....

 

[TMCCOY]

LOL, no kidding! They're nicely machined and anodized inserts to reinforce the 3" sheet metal intake plenums on 7.3's which isn't much of an issue at all until one starts adding more boost than stock. If you're going the route of the snorkle, you won't need it. The insert should only be needed if one wants to clamp down the UNI pre-filter, which isn't all that necessary either. We'll see how it goes, but the pair are $30 so it's not a big deal.

The trouble with the S&B is having to buy the talon version from the dealer for $450 and theoretically needing another $300+ in accessory items to install. I'd skip that and try to just run a relay off of the key on power and call it good, but I'm not crazy about the money at this point with everything going on...

 

[Wilson1]

Even if I do go the snorkel route, I would still have to clamp a filter to the end, so I am thinking one of those could come in handy anyway. I have ordered the UTI for now, so I am in on splitting an order with you. Thanks for the offer by the way. I am with you on the S&B. IMHO, not only is it too costly for the solution, but they are big and ugly. I could use the money for other things that would be more useful for "me". Let me know about the order for those fine Ford parts, and I will be happy to send you some money. Cheers, Earl

 

[TMCCOY]

Okay, will do. I'll send a IM once ordered. The small business who supplies these out of Oregon is truly fantastic. Here's the description:

These billet 7075 Aluminum plenum inserts are a Riffraff Diesel original design and are patent pending. They are made to allow you to clamp down as hard as needed with T-bolt clamps so that you don't have any boost leaks. Fix your bent and crushed stock plenums with our Inserts as well. This is a budget friendly option to buying full billet plenums. Easy install, no special tools needed.

These were designed so as to add the least restriction possible while providing more than adequate structure for clamping. The Plenum Inserts have been machined to within .164" of the OEM diameter so there will not be any measurable affect on EGT's or cfm flow.

These are sold in a pair.

Riffraff Diesel Performance is committed to 100% Made in the USA on this product. All materials are from USA resources. Every machining step is performed in the USA. Every component is assembled in the USA.

 

[PaulF]

The trouble with the S&B is having to buy the talon version from the dealer for $450 and theoretically needing another $300+ in accessory items to install. I'd skip that and try to just run a relay off of the key on power and call it good, but I'm not crazy about the money at this point with everything going on...

You do not have to buy the Talon specific version. As a matter of fact, if you want to do something custom (like mount it above the roof) the Talon version is not what you want anyway.

I am using the CanAm version ($50 cheaper and bought it before the Honda one was even out) and hard plumbed it (I hate the "dryer vent" style hose). Total with aluminum tubing and silicone elbows, you will be into it around $500. I elected to exhaust mine out the side so I spent a little more.

Even if you purchase the Honda version, you do not need their wiring crap, just wire it to the battery, mount the relay above the fuse box with the other relays and trigger it with an ignition source right there at the fuse box.

I went one step further and added an additional relay and diode so that mine doesn't come on until after the starter is engaged so it comes on after the engine is started.

 

[TMCCOY]

Good idea on the second relay/diode to only turn the S&B on when KOER. I figured the switch plate and other "required" items for install aren't really needed. One can get 3" thin wall AL tubing kits on ebay to assemble a nice looking setup. That is probably the most appealing way to go. I agree on the dryer hose comment, that's one of my gripes with the S&B. For the money, it sure looks rough.

Universal 3" inch Aluminum 8 Piece Turbo Intercooler Piping Kit+T-bolt Black/Red | eBay

Aircraft grade aluminum is the preferred choice for intake and intercooler piping. Very light weight, durable and excellent heat sink capabilities. Can also be polished for that show car appearance.

www.ebay.com

 

[Ezgoin]

For an easy “Pre-Filter” fix I use a Uni offset filter underneath the stock filter.
There is no difference in noise and I’ve noticed no difference in performance.
I cleaned it the first time after I had about 245 miles on it and at that time the factory filter looked brand new.
These pictures are after 468 miles and this was the second time I had cleaned it.
Most of my rides have been in a group of from 6 to 8 rigs and all in the Yuma Desert Area where it is quite dusty.
I also spent one full day at Glamis.
It is kind of a pain to clean, but with a drill/driver it’s not to bad.
I do oil the inside and outside of the Uni filter
when I bought the filter it was $20.21 and I see it’s gone up a couple bucks.

UNI Hi Capacity 2-Stage Pod Filter Angled 6 in 3 in ID Amazon.com: UNI Hi Capacity 2-Stage Pod Filter Angled 6 in 3 in ID: Automotive

UNI FILTER Foam Filter Oil (1) Amazon.com: UNI FILTER Foam Filter Oil (1): Automotive

I pulled the side screen and was a little surprised to see the air intake "hat" (for lack of a more technical term) was up high and looking like it should get relatively clean air through the screen. The problem I could see was that there are a bunch of open penetrations between the wheel well and the air intake compartment that would allow direct access for dust to boil into the intake compartment. Just to see if it would make a difference, I took a roll of 2" black duct tape and tapped up all of the openings I could see that gave a direct shot of dirt from the wheel well to the intake compartment.
I may never know if that makes a difference because I also ordered the UNI filter above to use as a pre-filter. Just sucks that the factory filter will have to come off every time to clean the pre-filter.

 

[Wilson1]

So Ezgoing let me ask you a question. I haven’t had the cover off yet to look at the stock “hat” yet, do you think you could just add on the stock intake horn and run that tube to the outside and put a pre filter like the S&B?