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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Polaris that I use for more aggressive riding. Considering the Talon for reputation, non-CVT and huge noise reduction when trail riding. Drove one for 100 miles and was different at first but was impressed by the end of the ride. Want this machine primarily for wife and I to trail riding in mountains and other rocky, washboard type terrain with as smooth ride as possible. Already going to replace springs with Shock Therapy. Did that on my Polaris. Night and Day difference. Will still use the Talon to do some aggressive driving, not a big fan of dunes but will do some slick rock. I don't like the extra width of the "R" but will get it if the extra rear shock travel improves the ride quality. Similarly, does this forum think the Live valve will help improve the ride quality as it changes based on current conditions or is it not needed for my type of riding.

So,
Will the rear extra length of the "R" help with ride quality?

Will the Live Valve improve my type of driving or was it designed for situations where driving is more aggressive?

Thanks
 

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2021 1000X Live Valve
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The live valve system is the real deal! Riding rough terrain in the mountains yesterday, and it ate everything we threw at it. The nice thing about it is it will adapt to a variety of conditions.

On the other hand, if all you are looking for is a cush ride, get the regular model and replace the stock shocks with marshmellows.
 

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I have a Polaris that I use for more aggressive riding. Considering the Talon for reputation, non-CVT and huge noise reduction when trail riding. Drove one for 100 miles and was different at first but was impressed by the end of the ride. Want this machine primarily for wife and I to trail riding in mountains and other rocky, washboard type terrain with as smooth ride as possible. Already going to replace springs with Shock Therapy. Did that on my Polaris. Night and Day difference. Will still use the Talon to do some aggressive driving, not a big fan of dunes but will do some slick rock. I don't like the extra width of the "R" but will get it if the extra rear shock travel improves the ride quality. Similarly, does this forum think the Live valve will help improve the ride quality as it changes based on current conditions or is it not needed for my type of riding.

So,
Will the rear extra length of the "R" help with ride quality?

Will the Live Valve improve my type of driving or was it designed for situations where driving is more aggressive?

Thanks
I too would love to know this answer, I don't know if everyone is being dramatic or fanboys of other brands suspension. I have a kawasaki mule 700 Pro MX with a harsh ride and manual steering, so I believe anything from there would be cush, mine is a farm like vehicle in terms of driving. So if anyone could give a legit answer it would be great.
 

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I have driven the following and will rate them as I see them in their stock form. This is based on rough trails/roads at slower speeds...
  • 2019 and 2021 RZR Turbo S 2 seater. This is by far the plushest machine I have ever driven. I give it a 10.
  • 2022 RZR Pro R 2 seater. This one is a close second. Polaris made the suspension on this one a little stiffer probably due to the weight. I give it a 9.
  • KRX 2 seater (I think it was a 2020). Nice ride but not as good as advertised. These are notorious for sagging springs. I give it a 8
  • 2020 Talon R Live Valve. Best riding of the Talons but the Talons are by far the worst of the sport machines I have driven. I give it a 6
  • 2019 Talon R (what I currently own) I give a 5 in stock form, a 5.5 after ST spring kit and now a 7.5 after Weller Racing springs and revalve.
  • 2021 Talon X Live Valve. The X is just a rough riding machine, even the LV version. I give it a 5 The 4 seater is a little better but not much.
  • 2019 Talon X. The worst of the bunch, I give it a 4. This thing will take out your kidneys if you ride too long.
  • 2012 RZR 800 Trail. Not something I would want to ride in all day, I give it a 2.
  • 2006 Yamaha Rhino. Worst machine in the world as far as I'm concerned. I give this a 1.
When you speed up, the Talon R's (both versions) do get a little better. In the desert going fast, they are tolerable. The X does not seem to get much better when speeding up. And it is not so much the springs, the Talons are valved so tight that they become a bit squirrely at higher speeds because they tend to "hop" around somewhat.

Changing springs to try to fix valving problems is futile, all you will do is lose bottom out resistance. Save your money and just get the shocks completely redone. For instance, combined spring rates after Weller did mine are -10 up front and +37 in the rear. They softened up the dampening and in the rear and added spring to assist with bottom out. Honda just has the spring and valving totally wrong on the Talon.

This is all from my experience and my opinion, YMMV.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Assume you are referring to Wellerracing.com? For my type of riding do you believe the live shock is overkill? You have me thinking the best option is "R" without Live shock and have Weller re-valve and spring. Thanks for your detailed insight.
 

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Assume you are referring to Wellerracing.com? For my type of riding do you believe the live shock is overkill? You have me thinking the best option is "R" without Live shock and have Weller re-valve and spring. Thanks for your detailed insight.
First off, I am not sure what Honda did to the 22 model so if you are getting one of those, you should wait and see if they improved anything.

I do not think the LV is overkill for anyone. The ultimate for a Talon in my opinion would be a reworked R Live Valve but I live out west where width is not usually an issue. If you are east, width can become a problem and you may want to stick with an X LV.

Problem is that I am not aware of anyone out west that does the Live Valve shocks so they would have to be sent to someone like G-Force back east (I think they do the LV's).
 

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he is spot on - 2019 non lv X beat me up on the plush green and blue trails at Hatfield McCoy, was actually braking before I hit
Automotive tire Wheel Tire Tread Engineering

something to slow down and roll over bumps slowly by the end of the trip.

no matter what talon you get, if comfort is important to you, plan to drop at least $1500 for shock revalve/springs/schrader valves, I was close to FCR on a work trip, dropped them off one evening and picked up 2 days later on my way back home.

if I had to ship them, if new springs are being supplied, strip the springs off and save some money on shipping at least one way
 

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I originally wanted an R-non-live valve but could not find one. I was able to find a '21 RLV and purchased it. I am now very happy about it as the LV is great, especially at speed. I try to stay away from mud and sand and snow and do mostly higher speed roads and trails, including fire roads and Baja. The LV does a great job of adjusting suspension if attacking/sliding a turn, resulting in less sway and is less prone to rolling. It makes me more comfortable to let the wife or someone else drive it as well.
 

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There are several differences besides width between the 1000X and 1000R...

The 1000X and 1000R are physically the same size.
1000R is 68.4" wide vs. 64"
1000R has a 5.1" longer wheel base
1000R has Fox Podium 2.5 shocks vs. 2.0
1000R has 4+ link trailing arm vs. 3 link
1000R has 3.1" more front suspension travel
1000R has 5" more rear suspension travel
1000R has a 3.6 ft. larger turning radius, 21.3 ft. vs. 17.7 ft.
1000R has 0.3" more ground clearance

The only reason to not get the 1000R is if you ride where there are 64" trail restrictions. Otherwise, the width, longer suspension travel and longer wheelbase on the 1000R are all to your advantage. The LV sure couldn't hurt.

No matter what version you get, having your shocks reworked by Weller Racing tremendously improves the ride/handling.
 

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There are several differences besides width between the 1000X and 1000R...

The 1000X and 1000R are physically the same size.
1000R is 68.4" wide vs. 64"
1000R has a 5.1" longer wheel base
1000R has Fox Podium 2.5 shocks vs. 2.0
1000R has 4+ link trailing arm vs. 3 link
1000R has 3.1" more front suspension travel
1000R has 5" more rear suspension travel
1000R has a 3.6 ft. larger turning radius, 21.3 ft. vs. 17.7 ft.
1000R has 0.3" more ground clearance

The only reason to not get the 1000R is if you ride where there are 64" trail restrictions. Otherwise, the width, longer suspension travel and longer wheelbase on the 1000R are all to your advantage. The LV sure couldn't hurt.

No matter what version you get, having your shocks reworked by Weller Racing tremendously improves the ride/handling.
What would you compare your R to now stock RZR 1000 xp or better? Ride wise I had broken over 20 bones in my life MXen,I need a roll cage and a harness to have with fun, and better ride now. Please let me know.
 

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What would you compare your R to now stock RZR 1000 xp or better? Ride wise I had broken over 20 bones in my life MXen,I need a roll cage and a harness to have with fun, and better ride now. Please let me know.
I can't give a fair comparison between my 1000R and a rzr 1000xp since I haven't ridden in a 1000xp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
An update. Will likely get the 1000R live valve. Everyone's input here has been very helpful. Spoke with both Weller Racing and Shock Therapy. WR have springs but currently testing, with good results, re-valving for LV. By the time I get my machine they will likely have everything ready. ST is doing both. Both agreed that non-live valve would be just fine but the LV will provide more instant control. WR did say that some prefer the non-LV when they want to have system set for one type of riding without changing during the rid. He told me this is typically a specialized group, not your average rider. Makes sense. Both did tell me that putting weight in the back, or hanging a spare in the back, especially on the rear bumper, makes a huge difference on stock springs which isn't needed with their solutions.
 

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I would recommend you get the R and live with it for a bit. I bought a brand new X-LV and a 350 mile R-LV. The X was brutal, so stiff, it was truly unpleasant to ride in the AZ desert. So I did the full setup (springs and Valving) on the X and it made a world of difference. The R on the other hand isn’t nearly as bad, I fully intended to do the full deal on it too, but after about 6 months and not doing it yet, I am starting to question if needed. It is a bit stiffer than I like, but certainly 100 times better than the X. YMMV but that is my experience.
 

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2021 Honda Talon R LV
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Just as well buy 2 of the R live valves you will enjoy. I had a 2019 R and just recently jumped on a R live valve the shifting is smoother and the ride is nicer just my 2 cents. I test drove the KRX and it rides a lot nice but noisy than shit. I kept reaching for the non existent paddle shifters. Love the Honda!
 

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First off, I am not sure what Honda did to the 22 model so if you are getting one of those, you should wait and see if they improved anything.

I do not think the LV is overkill for anyone. The ultimate for a Talon in my opinion would be a reworked R Live Valve but I live out west where width is not usually an issue. If you are east, width can become a problem and you may want to stick with an X LV.

Problem is that I am not aware of anyone out west that does the Live Valve shocks so they would have to be sent to someone like G-Force back east (I think they do the LV's).
Shock Therapy did my R LV with revalve and springs They are in Phoenix.
 

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There are several differences besides width between the 1000X and 1000R...

The 1000X and 1000R are physically the same size.
1000R is 68.4" wide vs. 64"
1000R has a 5.1" longer wheel base
1000R has Fox Podium 2.5 shocks vs. 2.0
1000R has 4+ link trailing arm vs. 3 link
1000R has 3.1" more front suspension travel
1000R has 5" more rear suspension travel
1000R has a 3.6 ft. larger turning radius, 21.3 ft. vs. 17.7 ft.
1000R has 0.3" more ground clearance

The only reason to not get the 1000R is if you ride where there are 64" trail restrictions. Otherwise, the width, longer suspension travel and longer wheelbase on the 1000R are all to your advantage. The LV sure couldn't hurt.

No matter what version you get, having your shocks reworked by Weller Racing tremendously improves the ride/handling.
The reason I traded the 2019 1000R for a 1000X was the turning radius was a PIA on many of the Hatfield-McCoy and Spearhead trails. I now ride a 2021 1000X-LV and it is a great ride.
I haven't any discussion about the damping adjustment, just going straight to spending money on re-valving and new springs. Anyone actually tried different damping settings?
 

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I have, I ride a 2021x. I ride tight trails in the southeast. First ride was wind rock. Rough ride. There are trade off’s between R and X.
The turn radius will hang you up in the R on the trails/exploring I like to do. The R is more stable on steep grades with big rocks and washouts.
I installed the shock therapy stage 1 upgrade(springs only) installed spare tire on rear roll cage and keep my cooler full w/32’s. The ride is agile but plush enough for an old dirt biker. $ money we’ll spent to be able to shift gears.
Last weekend, I hung with young hellions, they knew how to ride and where fast. The X was loose everywhere on the softest setting. I bumped it up to the next setting (I think there is only 3). After half a mile, cornering in rough terrain fast was night and day. The can am kept loosing the back end and I could get under him. The stability from one shock adjustment made the difference. I finished second in the scramble behind a nice ass rzr xp.
What I don’t like about the X is that when negotiating steep downhill w/washouts it’s skeptical. Rollover was an issue. I’ll be indulging in shock therapy stage 2 soon enough but now I want some low side weight in the form of 1/2” skid plate, high clearance A/radius arms with offset.
so I’m wondering will these $ upgrades take my turn radius. Will they give a bit more stability being as I didn’t widen the stance.
I think the weight I’m adding is half and half under my current spring rate so they should be fine when ride height is set and hope and hope the 1.5” offset will help keep the back wheel on the ground.
It’s all about the riding that you do. I’m staying in the woods. The X has been impressive slow and tight. No need for live valve, the speeds don’t give it a chance to shine.
always in the back of my mind, should I have gotten an R.
Never a second thought of giving up the ability to shift gears. I love my talon.
 
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